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My best advice is to search YT(or just a general internet search) on how to identify steel with a spark test. You'll find plenty of ways to test the steel for composition and hardness. But, unless you submit it for a formal composition analysis, you can only guess. What you bought is called...

You are talented, keep up the good work. Tell us about the steel and handle materials.

A beautiful knife, nice work! And, the best kind of gift you can give someone is something that you personally made for them.

Thanks for posting this build - watching closely.

Welcome, nice knife!

All I can say is RUN! There are so many ways buying that hammer could go wrong. - Virtually no specifications! - The description is garbage - 50 or 60 cycle power? We use 60 cycle, China mostly uses 50 cycle. - Does it have an air compressor too - impossible to tell how it works? - And then...

X2 Thanks for the guidance, I think I'll try that approach.

You may have answered this earlier. Are you using a Rise/Fall indicator aka a Ruple Jig? I've been watching some YT videos of the slip joint process and have purchased some starter books, but I gotta admit I'm really intimidated by the amount of detailed work it takes. I'm certainly impressed...

So that means you heat treated after your final grind, right? Have you found that you get any warping in the blade with that process? Did you Cryo?

I'm late to the party, but thoroughly impressed with your first slip joint. Q: Did you use a surface grinder to get the blade pin joint parallel?

Yes, X2

If I recall, there are companies that specialize in pouring babbit bearings. Do an InterWeb search and see if that might be a solution that's within your budget. Another "possible" option is to reassemble the bearings and line bore the existing babbit so it's oversized. In addition machine...

IMHO, that's not that good. .0005 (half thousand), in an inch, perhaps. Again, depends on your application. I'd need to refer back to some old lathe books but I think striving for tolerances of +/- .0001 (one tenth of a thousandth) in a foot is more common. But... it all depends on the...

Here's a couple close-ups of what these wheels look like. The Red ChiCom wheel shows the cross section segments in the wheel. The material texture is much different than either a standard Scotch Bright pad, or a conditioning belt. I'm curious to see how long these wheels will last. Though they...

In my opinion any epoxy that West System makes will work just fine.

I saw this conditioning flap wheel on Pop's some time ago and got a couple, thinking their hype was over exaggerated. Well, after testing for a couple months, I'm becoming a believer. I've used these wheels on G10, Micarta, and natural wood to finish sanding after getting to about 120 with a...

The other day I was wanting to simply sand the face of a knife scale. It's a bit of a pain to do it by hand on the 2" belt. But, I remembered buying this little gizmo at the SLC Blade Show for something like $5-10. Works pretty slick. But, it also can round the ends & corners if not careful...

Oh, one other thing, until you pull the bears caps, you won't know whether the shaft has been damage and possibly needing to be rebuilt. You may need to repair both the bearing and shaft.

Keep in mind that in one or both of the bearings there is likely a built in thrust bearing face to take the axial loading. If you rebuild or re-pour the babbit you will need to consider that the alignment of the spindle needs to be in exact alignment with the ways of the lathe (the portion of...

I use GFlex 90% of the time, otherwise West System 5 minute epoxy.