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Nice touch on that sheath. How long is that blade? Looks good.

This is a small and thin bird and trout I just finished up. It has a thin edge and a nice fine point. I love how thus thin W2 slices. 3 3/8" blade, 7 1/2" overall. Removable stabilized maple burl scales. 24k gold plated screws.

Thank you gents. I do appreciate it.

I just finished this small gent's folder. Mosaic Damascus blade 2 5/8" long. African blackwood scales with amboyna burl inlays. Mokume pivot collars. Jeweled titanium liners. Damascus backspacer and thumb bar opener. 3 1/4" closed.

Thanks for replying. Yeah, I was just curious why you chose that for that pattern? I wonder how old that book is? Maybe things used to be done awhile ago that we wouldn't do now. Personally, I wouldn't want soft spots all across my edge no matter how many layers I had, especially when 15n20...

Yeah people trying to sell anvils are insane. They think they're sitting on a gold mine. You can get a new good anvil for less than that. And you can get a really good new one for not much more than that. That guy can pound sand.

Looks great. Do you mean that all the silver layers are true pure nickel?.....as in unable to be hardened nickel?

Good song, excellent finger style guitar picking.

My buddy has a chili forge. Round on the outside...not on the inside. It will definitely reach welding heat (and then some). It definitely has a hot spot and the flame does not swirl around the inside. It is big enough to kind of get around the Hotspot but not completely. It works fine for...

That sucks Dennis. Sorry to see that. Curious.....have you considered not peening the pins anymore. I haven't peened a pin in years. And I've had to remove scales twice. It was a HUGE pain. Basically took a hammer, bandsaw and grinder. Just sayin'.

You should probably start a new thread and ask that question. This is a six year old thread and Wayne hasn't logged in here in since 2020. You'll get more responses and better discussion if you ask this in the shop subforum.

Yep I believe I will. The blade is that same Damascus as that practice piece. I did this coupon for a friend yesterday too and did the same process with excellent results.

@REK Knives I tried polishing and waxing this little scrap piece of a billet I made. It works pretty well. In fact this piece is so mirror polished that it's REALLY hard to photograph. It's way shinier than this picture even. And even more remarkable is this scrap piece isn't even heat treated.

Thanks man. Yep bronze washers. I'm not a huge fan of bearings.

Thanks man. I appreciate it. Yeah I saw that video about 3 months ago. Wish I had remembered to try it. I will on the next one.

I don't make a lot of flippers as the generally aren't my favorite and EVERYBODY makes flippers. But this one turned out pretty cool, I think. My own 1084/15n20 3 1/4" Damascus blade, desert ironwood scales, jeweled titanium lock/liners, black file worked g-10 backspacer, Damascus pocket clip...

I've had my best results from 1075 and Don Hanson W2. The few times I've used W1 were promising and I will probably eventually switch to that for all my steel when my current stock is gone. I haven't had much luck with 1095 at all. Or W2 from Aldo. Though looking at certs from admiral steel...

This is a small thin, slim and light folder. I think it has a timeless old school feel but with more modern materials. The knife is 3 1/4" closed with a 2 5/8" blade. The whole knife is 3/8" thick total and weighs only 1.4 ounces. The blade is forged from my own 1080/15n20 "Topo Map" polished...

I'd try a good scrub with dawn dish soap and baking soda followed by a good hot water rinse. I'd probably repeat a time or two in the interest of being thorough.

A quick look at this hamon straight out of tempering on this 8" bowie.