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Knifemaker's Corner - Metal Inlays and Carving with Andrew Meers

Another nice one, Mr Doyle.

I think the answer is dependent on the 'business model' (whatever that is) and the individual situation. I'd suggest that if you're a newer maker trying to drum up business and create a name, advertising this type of deal is not a good idea. But there's nothing stopping you from (or wrong...

are you referring to:

Good evening, Bruce. Sorry for the delay, out of town for a couple of days. I'm not sure how to answer that, and don't know all of what's out there, and what's already been mentioned are what I've read. I enjoyed both Jim Hrisoulas's and Gunther Loback's books as @vlegski mentioned above...

If you only want to know how to make patterns and consider the other information a waste, then you'll most likely be disappointed in any book and the internet will probably suit you better.

Ok.....here's some of what he had to say about stainless: - When drilling stainless steel, I have found at least 5% cobalt holds up well. - Stainless is tougher than low carbon steel but it is not necessarily “harder” so it’s more like drilling rubber than glass. - For stainless, you need a...

If you haven't already, I'll suggest getting some resources on cutting speed for various drill bit sizes and materials. In the most recent Hot Iron News (the quarterly newsletter of the NWBA) there was an article by a machinist called "Drilling Holes: A Few Pointers form a Machinist" and here's...

I'd say so, and don't limit your info from one source. My experience with cactus juice is secondary, but might be useful. I used to have property where I harvested my own maple for heating and would keep the good stuff, ending up with thousands of blocks of maple, some spalting, some burl, some...

Thanks for sharing.

I've got one and it seems to work ok for what I do with it. But I mainly use it to prep pieces for forge welding, rough grinding post forging to give me decent flats for freehand grinding or to get billets within a few thou of what folks ask for. So not sure my input will be helpful.

Good morning, Alden. I now use Weldwood contact cement on suggestions from another forum (I think). It comes in a standard paint can that seals good.

If the can is old, then yes, this is normal. I have gotten away from buying cement in those style of cans for that very reason.

Good afternoon, Ken. Nope, just the 3 powders poured into the can a few teaspoons at a time.

So I've finally been able to play around with some canisters, and here's the first KSO out of my 2nd can: Steels are 1084 powder from Kelly Cupples, 1080 powder w/2% nickel and 1080 w/4% nickel from Jantz.

But where's the fun in that?

I'm liking the border detailing on the sheath. Is that one stamp or a combination of stamps?

Someone will need a zoom account to start/host a meeting.

If you're serious about this, the 5160 club here in Eugene, OR does monthly zoom chats for members. There are a number of knowledgeable knifemakers that regularly log on. http://www.elementalforge.com/5160Club/

If you haven't seen this picture yet, here's a good one showing different grain sizes: