Search results

Adding Armor-All to other finishing oils makes them cure quicker and harder to last longer. They discuss it a few posts up.

Time to buy some Armor-All!

More Shiny S90V Shechita! Got the other 3, 5" models done, still gotta grind the 2, 4" versions. The 18" ones have been roughed to 36 grit pre heat treat and I am cleaning them up to 120 or 220 prior to HT. I will leave them thick and grind down to final post HT, but I am getting better with...

Finished up these 2 today! 3.25" S90V blade, blue g10 guard and blue/green camo handle and blue frame. The other is a 3" Elmax blade, teal stabilized burl handle, toxic green liners ans black frame. And with their sheaths

Did a rehab on a knife for a guy on FaceBook. No idea who the original maker was or the steel used. Before: After removing the rust on the hollow grind, EDM stones/sand paper to a 600 grit handrub, cleaned up the handle with 320, 400, 600 sandpaper and multiple coats of Tung Oil and a new...

Get/cut/make a smaller black leather washer, or use some 1/8" black G10 or Micarta and make up a smaller washer to go in the leather stack?

I have a HouseMade version that I adapted to my AmeriBrade. Loved it, so I bought the AmeriBrade version for my AmeriBrade!

I got around 3-4 hours of of my 40# before it started to sputter a bit, but it was also warm outside as well. Not sure how long it will go for during the winter time when it is colder in Connecticut! I want to get a 2nd and manifold them together. The water bucket trick would also help, too.

1084 and 15N20 stacked and Tig welded!

MagnaCut doesn't seem particularly difficult to grind when hardened. CPM20CV and S90V are a PITA (especially S90V), but Magnacut feels about like CPM154 or S35VN after hardening. A little harder than simple carbons/AEB-L/Nitro V after HT, but nothing horrible/curse worthy!

I don't have a tester. I had hardness chisels, but haven't gotten used to using them yet.

I did 1500 for 5 minutes in my kiln, then quenched in AAA, tempered 350 for 2 hours, twice, for most of my Alabama Damascus pieces.

Guessing easier to drill into a flatter surface than a rounded one?

Made a 3" EDC in CPM CruWear, Bone White Linen micarta, red liners, mosaics and laynard tube. Holster brown Raptor texture sheath: Rehandled a 180mm Watanabe nakiri in stabilized spalted wood (customer supplied) with some blue camo micarta as the spacer. Redid the ferrule on the original...

I used these for mine: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B097M8C2DS?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title Lots of different sizes out there and its easy to cut, drill and tap.

320-400 grit finish. I apply Tung Oil to it, let dry for about 5 minutes minutes and then buff off with a rag/paper towel. It basically darkens the G10, but doesn't effect the grip. Before: and after the Tung Oil:

100% Tung Oil is food safe.

I use Pure Tung Oil on most of my knife handles, regardless if they are G10, Micarta, stabilized wood or non stabilized wood, buffed finish or 400-600 grit finish. I let it soak in and then rub off the excess and do multiple coats. I occasionally use Tru Oil, but I really like Tung Oil better...

Thanks! I used a piece of 1/8" natural canvas micarta as the spacer in both the handle and scabbard. I had to thin the scabbard piece down a bit so it was a tighter fit to get the magnets as close as possible to the blade for the best retention. That handle is very comfy, definetly using that...

OPaul, excellent idea on the spring!! I am going to use that! I found that ACE hardware stores have a HUGE selection of springs from weak to stupidly strong. I was able to get springs there when I made my little Dremel Mill device to slot synthetic guard materials. Some of the springs I got...