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I picked up a old Wilson 1JR this winter for $325, just needed a new indenter and some tuning! So nice to have it to verify my HT results! I had several blades in Blue #2 come in way low and I found out my oil was too hot. They were 50 out of the quench instead of mid to high 60's! Wouldn't...

That looks pretty cool! Another option is to mix some glow in the dark pigments and epoxy and fill them with the epoxy so it will glow!

That looks awesome!! I am working my way through an 80 hour work week, so its going to be a sweet paycheck! Also gathering materials to build my own heat treat oven!!

I have an older evenheat kiln and the factory pyrometer is a good bit off from my PID! PID and SSR all the way!

I used a spade style drill bit for glass and got it to the ball was set into the hole a little less than halfway and then set it in fully by hitting some mild steel. It kinda did a press fit of the ball into the hole. Easy peasy! The drill bit one was a 5/32" carbide drill bit. I used the...

Works great! Straightened many blades with my cheapy carbide hammers! 1st one was a carbide drill bit I drilled into the 8oz ball pein hammer head, broke off and reshaped. 2nd was a 3/8" carbide ball bearing I drilled into an 8oz hammer head. No epoxy needed on either. Straightening a blade...

It grinds most of the mill scale off. I did it on some damascus bundles I ordered to save time cleaning up each piece on the belt sander; they come pre cut and wide belt ground to speed up the process versus buying bar stock, cutting the pieces down and cleaning them individually. Normally...

I just tried it and it works great! I went to 2000 grit handrub on these 2 and after a 5 or so minute etch, it had great contrast and still a polished blade surface, just darker carbon steel. I did a few 5-8 min etch cycles, cleaning up with 1500-2000 grit sandpaper between each until I could...

It did pretty well. We set the welds by hand and drew out the initial stack to around 13.5" and 1.3" thick. I had trouble getting into the rhythm of the hand lever at first, but it takes getting used to. With the snaller die size, you just take smaller bites. But the 50kg SayMak power hammer...

First 2 blades from the 96 layer billet!!

I thought it was always $99 or above for free shipping?? I always order $100 to get the free shipping. Lol

I made a small SS tray to hold kitty litter for this purpose. Works well when I do cable and need to use Borax! I have a propane tank forge, so it's a rounded bottom tray to fit into my forge.

Good to see you here Hunter! Glad to see you took up your Dad's mantle and are keeping the tradition going!

Went to Dragons Breath Forge on Weds and finished out my first billet! It was around 12" long, 1.7" wide and 1.3" thick after the first weld set after using by buddies Coal Iron 12 ton at his place. I used the SayMak 50KG at the forge (green one in the Foreground, but the BIG Nazel is in the...

I spoke with one of my friends with one and he told me that the heat is very localized, so it may not get the center of the billet/canister fully up to temps properly and keep an even heat through the billet.

It can get hot enough to forge weld. It may be hard to keep moving a heavy canister or large billet through the coils to get it hot enough though? You may need to insulate the coils, not sure what will happen if you bump them with the metal billet? One of my buddies forge has one and they use...

Glad you are keeping it and got it figured out!!

I clogged a 40 grit AO belt on Desert ironwood pretty quick yesterday, but a 40 grit Zirc Oxide belt at a little slower speed worked great! Maybe I gotta slow down when grinding the ironwood. I gotta find my Iwasaki Carvers files...

Took a piece of my 16 layer billet and forged it out. This was the end cut and was around 1.3" thick, 1.7" wide and around 1.4" long at the longest, but the length was rounded out due to being the end of the billet. I tig welded (poorly!) a handle onto the chunk, but it only held for a few...

I used to use the Iwasaki Carving Files. They work very fast and shave off material as opposed to gouging it off, so it leaves a MUCH smoother finish without the deep marks of a rasp and doesn't tear out at the edges as much. The Shinto saw file is one I haven't tried yet, but may get one for...