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Slag on your bare foot hurts! LOL

Remember, Larrins research is geared towards a knife. An axe/hatchet has some different stresses applied to it, different edge cross section, etc.

Pakimascus knife makers/wholesalers are on Instagram contacting people left and right to sell their garbage, too. Lots of people in the US are buying and reselling these blades as their own. I got contacted by numerous accounts trying to get me to buy and sell their garbage.

I am hoping to get into my shop to do some cleaning/re arranging tomorrow!!! It is really bad right now!

There are so many horrible blanks like that on the market. Soft steel, poor grinds, yet many makers are claiming to have made the billets themselves in the US. Complete BS!

I actually use my kitchen oven. I put the blades into sand in a 9x13 tray and set the temp to 15 degrees lower than I want (My oven overshoots a bit). I have a stand along digital thermometer, so I monitor the temp of the oven during the process periodically. I can adjust the oven temp as needed.

Yup! There is another one like mine for $80 plus 22 shipping and a few other similar ones. They are fairly large units, so the shipping is going to be around $20-$30. Elenco XP 620/625 or 720 is another one to look for.

I use a Cricut to cut my stencils out of their vinyl material. I cut a fresh stencil for each etch I do, so I don't have to worry about reusing it or the screen clogging. I am not sure how a real stencil would do for deep etching? I know when cranking up the voltage, my felt gets really...

I am really happy with my home build! I picked up a AC/DC Power supply and made my own wand for it (Dowel, brass screw, felt and a graphite block instead of a brass block). I put the dial just over half way for regular etching of my logo and it gets good and deep! I do 10 second intervals...

This one! I was able to cut out a few blocks of my material around 1" to 1.25" thick and then do the profiling and split the block for scales: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HFC5ZYM?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details The blade cut cleanly and went through quickly and left a good finish...

I got one of the Lizard Skins molds at WoodCraft...blew it out without much effort! LOL. I have 2 ton and 6 ton (and a 20 ton) bottle jack I use in my press. The 2 ton works well for stacked layers, or burlap or carbon fiber, the 6 ton works well with fabrics when I do camo since it may be...

I have nice thick metal molds for larger batches, but tried bread pans for smaller batches. Doesn't do too well versus a 6 ton press! I may have to play with some hdpe one of these days! I put the fabric soaked in epoxy into ziplock freezer bags and then into the mold. I leave one corner...

Ouch, I think Paul is sarcastic with his recommendation! LOL. There are so many head shake moments in that instructable and so much bad info. 400-500+ degrees for tempering, chicago/binding screws for the handle scales, etc! Unfortunately, that's the norm for today! People who have no clue...

Owner of a local gun store loved the blue camo handle, Magnacut hunter I made him last week and asked me last week if I could make another one before Christmas for his buddy. I still had to finish up my nephews 4 knives, so I told him I may be able to, but wasn't sure? Then I got stuck at work...

My honyaki blade was kinda thick at the top of the blade road, so in some ingredients, it would wedge. Most Honyaki blades I have seen are pretty thick (probably less chance of cracking during the quench), especially towards the spine, so the performance was only so so. It was a buffed mirror...

Japanese smiths are very much stuck in tradition!! San Mai is easier to straighten and work/grind down with their big water cooled stone wheels and is more efficient material wise, but more inefficient labor wise! Yes, they can bend and not break, but mono steels can flex and return to true...

I don't like that people assume a forged knife is always better than a stock removal knife! People seem to look down on stock removal, even though I can use a huge variety of steels and have them heat treated properly and have a more consistent quality with less chances of micro cracks or huge...

Its funky stuff for sure! If I cut from the side of the block, the colors are thinner wavy lines. From the top and bottom its more of a swirl/camo pattern. I gotta weld up a better mold. Used bread pans for these, but they bowed out under the pressure, so I got more air bubbles than usual in...

Finally got some shop time in, had 3 days off in a row this week! 4" Magnacut hunter with my homemade blue camo handle material, mosaics, lanyard tube and Holstex sheath: 2 AEB-L Pokers, 3.5" blades, one live blade (full flat grind), 1 trainer blade (Saber ground), OD Green SureTouch handles...

I have a bunch of black/blue suretouch handled fillet knives out there and haven't heard of any staining yet? I've used mine in the kitchen, but nothing bloody/gunky.