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I agree, the degree of flatness leaves something to be desired from an SGA. Does the hammer leave divots that need to be ground out? I am about .005-6 over final thickness, so anymore grinding makes me nervous.

Byington Blades. They are in California, I'll call once they open and see. The Rockwell was supposed to be around 64, the paper they sent me is confusing, so I want to clarify that as well.

So I got the blades in yesterday. Very disappointed, all 7 are warped to some degree. I assembled the knives and the blades aren't centered. Placed them on my granite surface plate and there is some wobble in them. I'm gonna try to clamp them to overcompensate for the warps and re-temper...

Just got the tracking info. Blades should be here by the end of the week! So hopefully more content on Monday!

Then it was time to soften up the edges of the scales so there aren't any sharp 90 degree angles. To do this I use my scotchbrite wheel on my bench grinder and at about a 45 degree angle, I just soften up all the inside and outside edges. Then I released the lock bar. I placed the scale...

Next up is to trim the pivot and stop pin and get them to their final length. I place the pivot in the knife and assemble it with my scrap piece of 1/8" steel to represent the blade. Then I take my digital calipers and measure how much it is sticking above my handle scale. In this instance it...

Now it's time to contour the scales. I start out by putting Dykem on the edges of my scales. Then, using the height gauge, I scribe a line .065" from the outside edge to give me a line to grind to. To do the coutnouring, I use a pair of 1-2-3 blocks and superglue each line to the blocks. Making...

Next. I need to relieve the liners in the area of the lockbar to make unlocking the blade easier and to provide some relief from the hard edges while unlocking the knife. I place my grinder in the horizontal position and use one of the contact wheel on the bottom of my platten to do this...

Next, I will counterbore the pivot screw and the pocket for the bearings. I am using a .314 carbide counterbore with a 3/16" pilot from USAKM. The head of the screw will be counterbored .030". The bearing pocket will be counterbored to a depth of .042" (bearing is .062" thick and I want...

While the scales are still flat on both sides, time to drill and tap the holes for my pocket clip. I set the clip in place and use an automatic center punch to mark the holes. Then I take it to the drill press and use a 5/64" bit to drill the holes. I am using threadform taps, so this is the...

Now it's time to cut the lockbar and mill the lock relief. This takes about 30-40 min per blade, so I'll be done this weekend when I get some more shop time. I did two of them already and thought I'd go ahead and include this portion now. I use .025" cutoff discs from McMaster Carr along with...

So the last step before sending these out for heat treating is to do some jimping on the spine. I use a 1/8" chainsaw file to do this. First step is to Dykem the spine and use my digital calipers to evenly (as best as I can) space the jimping. I mark the location with my carbide scribe and go to...

Last night I drill the liner and the blade for the detent. First step was to drill all the lock side liners with a #54 drill bit. I need the hole in the blade to be a #54, so I have to use that bit to drill the lock side liner detent hole so I can transfer it to the blade. I will go back later...

Yeah. I'll go over that in a few steps. You have to mill a relief into the outside of the lock side liner. Once that is done, I'll heat that area and bend the lock bar over so that it engages with the lock face, which I will also grind to around 8 degrees.

Thank you, I appreciate the comment. I have always enjoyed a good build thread and have learned so much from them. Figured if this helps one maker with one aspect of making a framelock, then I'm happy!

Now it's time to mill the stop pin track. Since the mill is already setup to drill the stop pin hole, it is ready to go for the stop pin track. I place a 1/8" drill bit the chuck and clamp down my blade. I rotate the table until the drill bit fits securely into the pre-drilled hole in the blade...

Now that my stop pin hole is to it's final diameter, I can set the open and close positions of the stop pin track on my blade. To do this, I place a pivot through the lock side scale and the blade. I get the blade to the position that I want it to be in when opened. I clap the scale and blade...

Now that the stand-off and stop pin holes are counterbored, I have to shorten the screws for the stand-offs and the stop pin. As they sit, they are too long and the ends of the screws would hit each other inside of the stand-offs and the stop pin, preventing them from tightening down properly...

Once I have the #44 hole in the stop pin location of the lock side liner, it's time to get the show side scale going. I dykem to back of the show side scale piece. I then place to pivot through the lock side and into the show side. I then clamp them together with a Kant Twist clamp and scribe...

Next, I drill the holes in my lock side scale. I use the spotting drill to mark the pivot hole, follow that up with the #15 bit, and finish up with a 3/16" chucking reamer. The through holes for the stand-offs will be drill with a #44 dill bit. I use a 5/64" bit to drill the corners of the lock...