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I buy the "job pack" Norton 100 for cleaning up nasty ti frames and blades after heat-treat. Also good for natural materials at slower speeds (mine is always running pretty slow). I then use 3M Imperial wet-dry 220 on flats and ti frames for more finishing. I get that from auto paint supply...

I have two KMGs, a KMG horizontal and a disk. I would buy more if I had room -- less time changing tool arms means less time wasted.

Thanks, I'm not sure how I missed those rods! Can't go cheap, this one will be getting the full treatment. :)

That makes sense -- where do most of you all get yours? McMaster Carr?

I've got an order for a slipjoint that I have to pin together, but have never done that before. I've been over the WIP threads, but couldn't find my answer. I'll be using 410 and 416 for the liners and bolsters.

You know a guy that can build 'em? I've always been more of a "buyer" than a "builder." :biggrin:

I have, but I'm set in my ways. :D I picked up some more of my old school satanite and all should be well. :)

This is something that has been on my mind lately -- I've always been interested in doing salt pots, but I do about 99-percent folders and I've been thinking about the feasibility of a "mini" salt-pot with about a 15-inch tube or so. Anyone have thoughts on this? Mr. Cashen? :D

Anyone ever used this stuff? Ellis was out so I had to get it elsewhere, but since using it I feel like my eyeballs are burning out of their sockets while trying to heat-treat. I figure it has to be the new satanite.

It probably had some micro cracks in it from the brine quench -- do not use the stuff on steel unless you want a lot of heartache.

Very nice!

I am in!! Thanks for the great giveaway --

Willys electronics online. Better stuff than radio shack's too. :)

I use teflon -- I think Carson has been using it for about 30 years and if it works for him, then it will definitely work for me. :)

Hello from Southwest MO. :)

Some flippers and a couple of slipjoints. I don't know why, but the slippies really kick me in the behind.

Pick up Bob Terzoula's book "The Tactical Folding Knife". A ton of good information in there about lock geometry and how to make liner and frame locks.

If you don't think they are "professional caliber", then you probably shouldn't sell them until you believe they are. eBay isn't the best place to establish yourself as a maker in my opinion. You gotta set a price and stick with it. If you have a minimum bid of 25 dollars, then you're basically...

I try doing mine on the 90-degree platen, but I still like getting them to have a hand-rub that follows the spine. Did you do that, or is it common to leave that with a light belt? I probably just need more practice. :D I added an arrow to make sure we're on the same page -- thanks again for...

Great tutorial! Couple of questions -- how do you go about cleaning up the "square" of the blade where the tang hits? I find that to be the toughest part of hand-rubbing. Also; where did you get that carbide file guard? Thanks!