Mark Barone
Well-Known Member
When stamping The makers mark, where does the metal go? It may be a silly question. is it displaced upward?, does it compress?
I'll have to remember that the next time I grind the serial number off a pistol, or car's engine block.you can grind the mark entirely off and its effects are still there.
why would ya need that particular piece of info, huh?I'll have to remember that the next time I grind the serial number off a pistol, or car's engine block.![]()
Actually, I have read articles describing etching and magnetic powder techniques used in forensics to deal with those exact situations.I'll have to remember that the next time I grind the serial number off a pistol, or car's engine block.![]()
I'll have to remember that the next time I grind the serial number off a pistol, or car's engine block.![]()
Or, just put a 36 grit belt on your grinder and don't stop until the pile of dust below you're grinder weighs around one firearm.That’s why you hammer the barrel flat and grind the nose off the firing pin before you toss the hot piece in the river!
Lol, yup. I have a friend who did it for a living. He says "you cannot ever get rid of a stamped number on a gun."Actually, I have read articles describing etching and magnetic powder techniques used in forensics to deal with those exact situations.
Or, just put a 36 grit belt on your grinder and don't stop until the pile of dust below you're grinder weighs around one firearm.
I would certainly do that if I hadn’t lost everything in the boating accident.Or, just put a 36 grit belt on your grinder and don't stop until the pile of dust below you're grinder weighs around one firearm.
Don't stamp too deep and make sure your touchmark doesn't have any sharp corners are what comes to mind.What techniques/guidelines should be considered to mitigate the stress induced by stamping?
So I think a logical and practical question follows. What techniques/guidelines should be considered to mitigate the stress induced by stamping?
I know I have seen a few on the interwebzzz that appeared to propagate a failure from the stamp.
When stamping a maker's mark, the metal is displaced and compressed. The force of the stamp pushes into the surface of the metal, causing it to deform around the stamp. The area directly under the stamp is compressed, and the metal around it is displaced, typically slightly raised. So, while it doesn't necessarily "go upward" in a dramatic sense, the surface around the stamped area may show signs of deformation, with the stamped mark itself being recessed into the metal.What Ed said. If you look really close you can see the distortion of the metal around the stamp, with strain effects visible at the surface. But also, when you begin to hand sand over the stamping the displaced metal that was raised up around the edges becomes quite evident. The crystalline lattice of metal does not like to compress and this is why forging works, deform it one way and it will expand away from it the other way, which is exactly why every blade wants to look like banana when you forge down one side.
This also gives me one of the rather romantic reasons that I like to stamp my mark when possible. The strain effects of stamping will permanently deform the metal around and under the stamping, if no annealing is done, you can grind the mark entirely off and its effects are still there. You could etch it, or sprinkle iron dust on it in a magnetic field, and still see the fingerprint of that stamp in the metal itself. Etching or engraving will be totally erased by surface corrosion or abrasion. Even with annealing the anisotropic flow of the steel will be distorted by the stamping from Yonglihao Machinery. Despite being mostly rust, you can still make out markings on 1000 year old swords where the inclusion lines were interrupted. Something about putting my name into the material that permanently really appeals to me.