Recent content by KenH

A 30# propane tank makes a good forge - usually the local propane company has several old decommissioned tanks (20 mostly which will work) just laying around to give away to make a forge from. That's what I used.

What part of the world are you in? You can see where I am in my profile - if you're anywhere close I might have a spare venturi burner laying around - at least I've got a bell type tee that's good to use for the burner. I know I've got a spare forced air burner I used on an old forge.

I seriously doubt a pizza stone will work. Remember the forge will be well above 2,000°F, I suspect the pizza stone will break - won't hurt anything, just remove the broken pieces. What type of forge burner are you planning - venturi or forced air? I've used both types and MUCH prefer the...

For the low RPM bronze bushings I'll bet the bedding epoxy will work just fine. I remember this thread from last yr - Glad you updated the thread and hope you get the photo posting resolved.

Oops, I missed the question until this morning. I've got a Gweike G2 Pro fiber laser. Seems to work pretty good, I did this to play with color a bit (sorry it's so big). I did a challenge coin also.

Those lasers are simply amazing for sure. I've had a 10 watt diode laser for a couple yr, and it "works" to make nice marks on the blade. Just slow compared to the 30 watt fiber I got a couple months ago. Now, that laser I'm impressed with.

Those keyhole bolster/scales have always impressed me with the looks, and amount of skill required to do them. I've looked at the idea, but never tried it. Good luck and be sure to post results when you do try it. Perhaps even a build thread?

I agree with both of ya'll, Edwards and Karl - the best mirror finish is the one done after hand sanding with a hard block, up to at least 1200 grit. Then it doesn't take much buffing to get that nice shine. Back when I did it that way I used a 1/4 hp, 1750 rpm buffer which was all that was...

You're right Jim. The one I built was a bit longer with supports for the blade at each end. Without that support anything thinner than a thick blade would surely flex too much, and I do think it would be hard to provide manual support that would hold stable.

Do a search on Amazon for item #B0BPM2QC87 and you'll see the same jig. Even better, do a search on "Bevel Jig for Knife Grinding" - it's amazing how many different jigs show up. I've used very similar jigs over the years and they do work, better than my free hand grinding was back then. Over...

I use reverse a good bit - especially when sharpening. This allows the edge to be up, and belt coming to edge from spine direction. Reverse is used during the "waterfall" lengthwise type grinding. Take a look at this video around the 40 second mark to see what I'm talking about:

Jody Collier is one of the best teachers around. Here's a good link to his page: https://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/ and from there you can access the "Welding Videos..." about TIG and MIG as well as other types of welding. Bob, I agree with all you said about TIG welding. MIG does what I...

I have watched many of his videos - and am subscribed to his channel. Amazing how cheap those Chinese welders are these days.

You got a link to the one you purchased? For Damascus I've never felt the need for actual TIG welding, MIG with cored wire has always worked just fine without having to deal with the argon gas.

I know a really smooth high grit finish is required for a good Damascus etch, but didn't realize a mirror finish could help. I will try that on a piece of Damascus. Mirror finish on my next knife? Not sure about that - just like playing around with different stuff.