I have a length of 3x1 box steel with the end closed that I would put the blade in that should keep the decarb at bay if the 3x1 box is up to temp when the knife goes into it.You may have a problem with decarb and possibly pitting if it's not wrapped in foil.
I don't know about just putting it in a forge and getting up to temp. real fast, but I've seen what happens to stainless when it's put in a oven and brought up to temp. slowly with a pinhole or small tear in the foil, and it ain't pretty.
also, the widths of the various foils vary. some are 10" all the way to 24"...sure you noticed just giving a double check...Thanks Ken and Ted for the links. I see some is rated at 2000F and others at 2400F.
http://usaknifemaker.com/knife-maki...il-tool-wrap-321-002-x24-x10-up-to-1900f.html
This looks to be the best price @ $45 for 10' for 2000F foil as a start for the very few SS knives I will be doing so will see if my friend will get some ordered asap for me.
Yes...I do 20 blades in one wrap...talc them...ad a half sheet of paper towel folded up to burn up the oxygen...You really can't add too much paper...when the air is gone you end up with a nice soft black particle of paper. I would rather have a bit more than none at all...and maybe it matters not at all...some guys doing single blades don't add paper...and get great results.All I've ever used is the 321 and have run it up to 1975 with no problems.
I'll give you a tip though Von, I never had a problem with 440-C but with the CPM154 I was having serious problems with the foil wanting to weld to the blade. I started dusting my knives with baby powder and it never happened again, now I dust every knife before putting it in the foil. if you do this make sure it's the 'talc' powder and not corn starch. the perfume doesn't make any difference, it all burns up.