Adhesives?

Jim
I haven't used the Gorilla Super Glue (though I use their regular stuff all the time), but I wonder if a downside might be found in comparison to 2 part epoxies in a Glue Wars type of scenario? I'm certainly interested in the possibilities. Have you done much in the way of testing with this stuff?
 
wordsmith said:
Jim
I haven't used the Gorilla Super Glue (though I use their regular stuff all the time), but I wonder if a downside might be found in comparison to 2 part epoxies in a Glue Wars type of scenario? I'm certainly interested in the possibilities. Have you done much in the way of testing with this stuff?
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Unlike other CA Glues, Gorilla Super Glue,has unique rubber particles to increase impact-resistance and strength to handle everyday use.

This is basic physics, and how forces are applied. We are try to discuss if a 200lb, 400lb or 600lb rope hold a 10lb anvil better. Like the ropes The forces on adhesives are very minimal at best once you pin the handles.

Once a bond is made between the handle and the steel. Then you Pin it with glue on the pins and that bond it made. You have made the Scale, Tang and Pins one piece. Forces are distributed through the whole handle, tang and pins.

So the difference between Epoxies or Super Glues is personal one at best. As long as the bond is stronger than the material. The weakness then becomes your material and not your adhesives.

Now to answer you question. I once put two drops of Gorilla Super Glue on a micarta handle then on to a knife to shape it. Thinking I would just pop it off when I was done. I ended up using a pry bar and it tore the micarta and the glue did not fail before the Micarta did. It then became a null point and my main adhesive on almost all of my knives.
 
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I have not tried the super glue on micarta to steel but I put a couple drops to hold two micarta scales together while I shaped them. I did this to four sets of scales. I tried getting them apart with a heat gun first. It didnt work...the micarta was bubbleing up. So i boiled them for about 20 minutes thinking they would just come apart in the pot.....no dice. I pulled them out and had to pound a ground down screwdriver between them to seperate them and screwed one of them up.
Micarta to Micarta the suplerglue surpassed my expectations.
 
Jim I dont but also agree with some things your saying. I dont agree with the part about a glue is a glue. Each glue is made for a specific application with alot of differences. Some good on oily woods some good on acids. I have never used gorrila super glue . But maybee I should. I have used 5 min epoxy and never have enough time plus the short cure and set time means weaker bond. Ive used 30 min epoxy and still run out of time .I have used 60 min and thats better, lately ive been using acriglas and it just failed to hold on my wifes set of knives I made for xmas. Im not impressed to say the least, the snake wood cracked and the handle literally popped off. I am now trying a new glue and wont even say what it is til I see what its like but the cure time is 48 hours and workable for 12 hours. This glue could be just the thing Im looking for . If this fails I will contact you about the gorrila glue. I just dont like trying to work fast when gluing. I agree with alot of what your saying , the bond should always be stronger than the handle material used .
 
HELLGAP said:
Jim I dont but also agree with some things your saying. I dont agree with the part about a glue is a glue. Each glue is made for a specific application with alot of differences. Some good on oily woods some good on acids. I have never used gorrila super glue . But maybee I should. I have used 5 min epoxy and never have enough time plus the short cure and set time means weaker bond. Ive used 30 min epoxy and still run out of time .I have used 60 min and thats better, lately ive been using acriglas and it just failed to hold on my wifes set of knives I made for xmas. Im not impressed to say the least, the snake wood cracked and the handle literally popped off. I am now trying a new glue and wont even say what it is til I see what its like but the cure time is 48 hours and workable for 12 hours. This glue could be just the thing Im looking for . If this fails I will contact you about the gorrila glue. I just dont like trying to work fast when gluing. I agree with alot of what your saying , the bond should always be stronger than the handle material used .
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I clarified it a bit.

Was your snakewood stabilized?
 
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Murph this a direct quote from the testing that Tracy did with glues. It isn't so much about the glues as surface prep.

Quote Tracy:

"
The second learning:
Surface preparation is more important to a successful glue up than is the adhesive its self. Please don’t underestimate surface preparation. A mediocre adhesive with an excellent surface preparation will out perform an excellent adhesive with a poor preparation by a large margin.
Steve diligently cleaned some of his test pieces with Simple Green, a soap that is often recommended for cleaning all kinds of things. The simple green apparently left a residue that prematurely failed all of his initial adhesive tests. Other surface cleaning solutions also left a residue that impaired adhesive performance.
My tests on a roughed up or scratched surface using a fresh 36 grit belt versus sand blasting gave exceptionally clear results. On ten test pieces I prepared, one end was sand blasted and the other scratched with a 36 grit belt, all of the scratched surfaces failed. Six of ten of the sandblasted surfaces survived. THIS IS HUGE. Again, routinely, high caliber and very competent knife makers recommended scratching or roughing up the surface of a knife to provide a better purchase for the adhesive. Certainly this is true but sandblasting a surface vastly out performs a scratched surface to the point where I recommend a knife maker absolutely invest in at least a minimal sandblasting setup to prepare a surface for glue up. Watch chemical cleaners for residue. Test this by allowing you cleaning chemical to dry on a piece of glass and have a look. I use isopropyl alcohol myself."

Just a little extra that could be very helpful in your sucess with a glue of your choice.

Hope this helps,

James
 
acetone leaves an oily residue. to test this, wipe some on a piece of glass and let it dry then move the glass around in the light. You will see the multi-colored reflection typical of oil on a water surface. It is an effective solvent but it is not necessarily a good cleaner.
 
I always use alcohol to prep surfaces as well, switching to a clean area of cloth every swipe to make sure you're not laying back down what you just picked up. I really need to get a compressor and blaster setup, but for now I've had to use the old rough the surface up combined with epoxy "rivets" and corresponding divots in the scales as well as corby's whenever possible.

--nathan
 
Jim im sold now I just have to find it in Canada . In moose jaw Saskatchewan we dont have great shopping but ill look in home depot in Regina next time. I dont like working fast but if it holds like that ill try it. I saw the other gorrila glue dries with a white color but this is completely different like you said in your revision. kellyw
 
One "issue" I have yet with Gorilla super glue is how it will age. It has not been around all that long, so who knows???
Also, heat will affect it like any other glue. I have seen that first hand with G.SG when rough grinding. Sure, I may have been going too hard and fast, but... (water boils at 212 at sealevel, glue fails at 350+, thats why boiling it didnt separate those slabs. Cook it in the oven at 450 for an hour, it'll come apart, as would most other glues, even E-120.) Now if we could just get our hands on the stuff they glue the heat shields onto the space shuttle with.....

There are so many variables, as Tracy's "war" brought to light. I think it's much like steel choice. Id rather have mediocre steel treated right than great steel treated poorly.

And after all, the essence of good knife building is over-engineering isn't it? I mean, really, who is going to take the $200 knife they just purchased and drive nails with the handle end??? But we strive that they could if they wanted to.
 
Jim I have looked and come up empty handed so far. I will talk to the manager at peavey mart tommorrow and then get back to you. How much is one small bottle like the 1 oz or is it 2 oz worth . ??? I would just paypal you what ever it costs plus 10.95 for priority shipping usps to canada Ide get probably a bunch each time thanks for your offer. I also just had my wife tell me another handle failed from the glue on the knife I gave my motherin law for xmas. acriglass is not working for me, am I doing something wrong. I do wipe down my blades with acetone and take a diamond bit and ruff up the tang and do the same on the wood. I dont know anymore, but I will try the gorila super glue cuzz Like you said Jim who likes waiting for glue to dry.
 
I dont always believe the stuff/vids I see online. But from the reviews I have read and from you makers that stand behind it. I trust it, plus I found this::eek::D
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3tPxfdK5wtk"]YouTube- Gorilla Super Glue Truck Lift[/ame]

Dont know if its BS or not, but this stuff sounds mean....I will try it out!


Jim Adams Customs said:
I have went to Gorilla Super Glue on all my flat surface applications.
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Boy, this thread has some miles on it.:D But it gives me an opportunity to ask this question. Early on in my retirement, I bought a 30' sailboat, and while redoing the bottom I bought a gallon of the West System epoxy and the slow hardener. I also bought a slew of other additives like low and high density filler, colloidial silica and other stuff. What part, if any can I use as an adhesive for handles and such. I am done using it on the boat and I'd hate to see it go to waste. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks Everyone,

Jeff
 
West system is good stuff. use it. you can even use any micro bubbles if you have them to ensure no joint starvation.
 
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