Adhesives?

murphda2

murphda2

Super Moderator and KD Blade Show Boss
Which adhesives do you guys use when constructing full/tapered tang knives? I'm getting close to being ready to finally complete my first knife (after endless grinding errors) and want to construct this piece with a micarta handle and fiber spacer material with carbon fiber pins.

Which adhesives do you guys use for attaching the spacer material to your micarta and do you use the same adhesive for final assembly? If not, which do you use?

My only limitation is that I would like to order whichever adhesive from Boss, as I'm needing to order some new belts from him as well and want to only place one order.

Thank you for your responses in advance.
 
Tracy sells the repackaged 2-part epoxy that is sold by several distributers. It works well enough. Get the slowest cure you can get as it tends to form a stronger bond in the end.

I used Tracy's stuff for a while, but I've since switched to Acraglas as well from Brownells. It is really, really good stuff. You mix it by volume, you have plenty of working time, and it sets up an extremely tough bond. It was developed as a rifle bedding compound, so it's designed to be a space filler and take shocks. As such, it is ideal for hidden tangs where the epoxy is used to fill space, and in full tangs when you have holes drilled in the handle for balance. It's a great epoxy.

--nathan
 
FWIW, I agree on Acraglas especially on hidden tangs. I prefer Acraglas gel for scale handles. Acraglas pours like syrup while the gel has more of semi-soft butter consistentcy. I still wish they mfg'd Acraweld, it was my favorite.
 
Loctite E-120hp Hysol. None better for a two-part epoxy in my opinion. I've tested mine to failure of the Micarta, but not the epoxy..... Have to have the applicator gun for this but it is worth it. I dont use the tips, just mix it in a cup, but you are always assured the correct mixture with it.

I've also had success with Sumo Glue. You gotta be quick but it holds like a pissed of pitbull! And it can be worked withing 30 mins of application if you don't get it too hot. Once again, when I tested this stuff, I beat the Micarta to pieces before it turned loose.

I use Loctite 300 Depend on some things, liners especially. However, I have a harder time getting an acceptable glue line with it than the others.
 
Johnny, I've never tried the Acraglas gel, but from Glue Wars held on Bladeforums a while back, it didn't fair too well while the regular acraglas was one of the top performers.

--nathan
 
I use loctite E120 for full tang and acra-glass for hidden tang. After the glue wars I did some testing on my own and found the E120 hysol to be the strongest holding and still friendly for knife construction. Acra-glass has been holding up to the recoil on rifle stocks for years and doesn't shrink so I don't feel like there is anything better for a hidden tang handle.

Tracy did an extreme amount of work on the glue wars so I'm sure what he is selling is a good way to go if you are just starting out. I just hate switching now that I have the applicator and am used to using the E120.
 
johnny warner said:
FWIW, I agree on Acraglas especially on hidden tangs. I prefer Acraglas gel for scale handles. Acraglas pours like syrup while the gel has more of semi-soft butter consistentcy. I still wish they mfg'd Acraweld, it was my favorite.
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Brownells still sells the acraweld now but I feel like it's close if not the same thing as the loctite E120. When Brownells changed theirs needing the same applicator as the loctite that tells me it all comes from the same place.
 
acra glass is great stuff. it just stinks to high he**. It isn't flawless. Measuring by volume is a pain.
I Loctite 120 is really good stuff also. I'm surprised so many guys sprung for the dispensing gun. I'll get it added to my assortment. It's drawback is the dispensing gun expense - which is one time I understand.

the 2 part epoxy I have is from Bob Smith Industries. It is good stuff and I use it myself.
It is NOT the best, most durable expoxy out there. I think Loctite, overall, makes the best adhesives out there. I have been reading up a bit and see there are some adhesives that outperform 120hp and I can't understand how that is possible. I will keep researching.
 
If it is your first I would go for something slow to harden like Devcon 2 Ton as you won't have to panic when you left something on the other table or it takes you a while to get things adjusted etc.
 
Looking at what Tracy has you might go with the "Epoxy 2 part 30 Minute slow cure" that he has. It is sometimes nice to have 30min to get it right instead of 5min.
 
I was thinking that the 30 minute would be the way to go. Do you guys use the same epoxy for attaching the liner material to the micarta as well as for final assembly?
 
murphda2 said:
I was thinking that the 30 minute would be the way to go. Do you guys use the same epoxy for attaching the liner material to the micarta as well as for final assembly?
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yes.
I always use 30 minute epoxy. It is universally stronger/better that I have seen across all brands. If I am in a hurry, I use Depend 330 or Speedbonder 325 or 326. I don't like short pot life. I've had a few glue ups go off when I was moving too slow and I don't want that to happen again.
 
For attaching liner material i invariably use gorilla glue because I know it's strong and in the liner to scale joint there shouldn't be any gaps. It sets up more quickly than my epoxy too, which I like. I don't always use Gorilla to attach scales to tangs, but sometimes do that too. Depends on the knife I guess.
 
That Gorilla SG is some pretty serious stuff - I so use it from time to time to hold liners to scales, but only if I'm using a bolt for mechanical hold. I dont think it could compete with good epoxy or Depend 330 for a pinned handle IMO.
 
I measure small batches of Acra-Glass with syringes.

The dispensing gun for the E120 wasn't too bad if I remember right. I think McMaster Carr was around 10 bucks or so which is where I get the E120. Tracy, If you could add the E120 to your line up it would be a good thing I believe.

I always keep devcon 5 minute around for small quick stuff like gluing material to a fixture for milling.
 
Cliff, I do the same thing. I have two syringes that I wash after use, one labeled hardener and the other for resin. Works great and is just about as easy (while a whole lot more accurate) as squeezing out equal piles like I formerly did with two part epoxies I was using.

--nathan
 
DLBrothers said:
That Gorilla SG is some pretty serious stuff - I so use it from time to time to hold liners to scales, but only if I'm using a bolt for mechanical hold. I dont think it could compete with good epoxy or Depend 330 for a pinned handle IMO.
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Yes it is. On Handles I had to remove I had to grind the Handles and pins off. So there is no way I will go back to waiting on epoxy to dry and cure. I can glue and finish handle before you can finish a cup of coffee and long before your epoxy dries on your first scale. You still have the second scale and pins to glue and cure. Now what is downside again?

Chris Reeves Knives used double sided tape on some of his high end knives.
 
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