Knifemaking abrasive costs

Frank Hunter

Well-Known Member
I'm putting this out there because I really don't want newer makers to be intimidated by the ultimate costs of making knives. Yeah, it's an investment but I can dare say it's profitable if you put the time into learning it. This is long, follow if you want to - I've got per-task breakdowns estimated throughout. I hope someone feels relieved at my numbers.

I've been following a few threads lately and I think I'll chime in with some to-the-penny pricing on what it takes me to finish out a knife. It can be expensive, or very cost effective. I'm a 2x72" guy, my belts run from between $7.50 for the flexible regular backing Norax, to $9.00 or so for the Blaze ceramic, to $14.00 for the super-stiff Norax blue back I had custom ordered. You all know how much your machine and hours cost you - here's mine.

Right now I can get eight or nine of my 4" skinner profiled off of a slightly worn 40-60 grit Blaze. I literally just cut the bar into 9" long sections with a slight miter at the tip and remove everything outside the pattern, using a push stick and medium speed, rolling the belt off the edge of the platen to get into the inside corners. The "slightly worn" belt usually has hollow ground multiple knives at this point but we won't count that. It's about a dollar's usage of the belt plus 1/6 of a $0.15 kilowatt of electricity to profile it. The belt isn't done yet, either - I shape leather and wood and bolsters, and can get another half dozen knives if I really push it but then the time starts to add up as it cuts slower. We'll stick with a dollar a knife for now.

The platen lasts for at least a hundred knives and is $25.00 shipped...the machine itself does so much other work I'd say the wear on it is about a nickel for ten minutes of profiling. So we're at a $0.25 worth of platen, five cents in KMG wear, $0.03 in electricity and and a dollar of belt at this point to make a knife blank. This is why I advocate taking the $1200 dollar plunge to get the big 2x72" machine, it costs literally less than $1.50 in materials to profile a knife possibly worth $150 to a thousand bucks.

With a new Blaze belt roughing the hollows and flats I can again get nine larger 4" knives out of one. This is all done at the middle pulley of my 3 speed setup, if you optimize the belt speed you can do better yet. Towards the end the belt is worn but not done. I then go to one of the stiff back Norax in 100X and clean the grinds and flats up and deburr it before tool wrap and heat treatment. This takes me about 5 minutes per knife and the wear on my 100x belt is nominal. Those new Norax are very, very efficient. Figure another dollar in Blaze belt at this point, plus $0.50 or less on the Norax. We're at $3.00 worst case scenario at this point, using my machine and choice of abrasives.

After heat treatment I go over it again gently with the same 100X, then onto 45x and 15x. This is done with the same stiff Norax mentioned in those grits - I have yet to totally wear one out, although I am now on my 2nd of each grit after probably two dozen knives in varying sizes, including 6 large 8" bowies. I use the originals for cleaning up bolsters and they're still going. I then swap to the original flexible 5x, chasing scratches in the hollows, then a worn 5x with white compound. The flats I hand finish from 15x with 400, 600, 1200, 2000 grit paper and white/green buff cycles for a mirror finish. I use 1/6 of a sheet of $1.19 paper in those 4 grits, so figure $0.80 in sandpaper. I estimate I've used 1/25th of a $14.00 belt of the heavier Norax for about $1.50 usage of those and a good half the 5x belt for cleaning the flats for $3.50. The old Norax are awesome and necessary for finer work but they don't last as long as the new ones - two almost completely different applications for them. So now the blade is taped up and mirror polished and we've got less than $9.00 in it so far.

On the handles, they're shaped with 60 grit, the 100x stiff Norax, then I move onto the flex belts in 100x, 45x, 16x and on the bolsters a 5x. I have to chase and buff, chase and buff with the 304 stainless I use for bolsters and I'd say I finish off a 60 grit belt that was started previously doing so. It loads up with epoxy and is about shot after this - but this is after multiple hollow grind and profile jobs. It doesn't hardly touch the 100x stiff Norax, so I figure I spend about a $0.50 there again. I have done multiple batches of 5 knife handles to a mirror polish, including top and bottom bolsters and the entire exposed full tang with a set of 100x-5x belts, so the cost of $30 amounts to about $6 a knife when done that way.

The electrical costs for the rest of the finish come out to be perhaps 5 hours of active grinding time at $0.15 per kilowatt - it's less than a dollar in electricity overall per knife. Heat treatment costs are another animal. But even with the KMG running cost included I've figured it repeatedly and it comes out to be for my mirror polished 4" hunter or skinner to about $15.00 in belts/electricity added up between blade and handle. I'd say the introduction of the new stiff heavyweight Norax has cut my abrasive costs by at least half - the hardened blade steel was very tough on the original Norax and I was getting two or three finished blades per belt of each grit. Now, if I do just a 60 grit, 100x, 45x and scotchbrite belt finish, considering that my original scotchbrite belt from 2009 is still going after hundreds of blades and handles, I guess the cost is $10.00 or less per blade.

Like I said, this is meant to give kind of a cost-flow for anyone curious about the process - all of us guys have different ways of doing it and vastly different machines. I suppose the takeaway is the 2x72" grinder is much more efficient in cost of abrasives, and the new ceramic and engineered belts are definitely the way to go. Cheap belts just don't cut it IMO in the price/performance ratio. Sure, if I'm using ironwood it really loads up and wrecks a belt - so I use one that's already about shot and take it slow. The cheaper AO belts shine in this application but I don't stock them as I've got a seemingly endless supply of half-used Blaze to do the sticky stuff with.
 
Frank,
Good cost analysis and thanks for sharing it with all of us.
I concur that there are no cheapo belts worth buying and you get a much better belt per dollar with the Ceramic belts. I like the Norton Best value, over the Norton Blaze, but that's just my findings and VSM makes a 36 ceramic belt at about $5.00 a pop that is very hard to beat.

2 x 72" belts are by far the best value in the different sized belt grinders as well.

Laurence

www.rhinoknives.com
 
Thanks for the cost breakout. I am thinking of starting my next batch with all new belts and get solid data on belt costs. I save a bit by doing basic profile on a bandsaw, bench grinder with a 180grit silicon carbide stone and several good files. I was kinda shocked when I found belt cost was more than double the cost of the 1084 or 52100. will also look at the process closer and see if there is something that can be changed to decrease belt usage. we spend all this time at the office doing the 5 whys and 5 step one page problem solving; i will apply the techniques here and see what i can come up with.
scott
 
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Thanks for taking the time to post this. I have a hard time figuring costs like this and you explained it very well.
 
I'm putting this out there because I really don't want newer makers to be intimidated by the ultimate costs of making knives. Yeah, it's an investment but I can dare say it's profitable if you put the time into learning it. This is long, follow if you want to - I've got per-task breakdowns estimated throughout. I hope someone feels relieved at my numbers.

The electrical costs for the rest of the finish come out to be perhaps 5 hours of active grinding time at $0.15 per kilowatt - it's less than a dollar in electricity overall per knife. Heat treatment costs are another animal. But even with the KMG running cost included I've figured it repeatedly and it comes out to be for my mirror polished 4" hunter or skinner to about $15.00 in belts/electricity added up between blade and handle. I'd say the introduction of the new stiff heavyweight Norax has cut my abrasive costs by at least half - the hardened blade steel was very tough on the original Norax and I was getting two or three finished blades per belt of each grit. Now, if I do just a 60 grit, 100x, 45x and scotchbrite belt finish, considering that my original scotchbrite belt from 2009 is still going after hundreds of blades and handles, I guess the cost is $10.00 or less per blade.
I am approaching this as I would a cost analysis at the office(car axle forgings), so please bear with me. You are grinding each blade for 4 to 5 hours or did I misunderstand? does it make a difference if you start with precision ground flat stock?

What kind of knife could be made for $10 in material and one hour of labor; actual touching the knife, waiting for epoxy to cure or furnace to heat up doesnt count.
Scott
 
I am approaching this as I would a cost analysis at the office(car axle forgings), so please bear with me. You are grinding each blade for 4 to 5 hours or did I misunderstand? does it make a difference if you start with precision ground flat stock?

What kind of knife could be made for $10 in material and one hour of labor; actual touching the knife, waiting for epoxy to cure or furnace to heat up doesnt count.
Scott

My 2 cents on this is.
You couldn't make much of a knife for $10.00 unless you live in China and eat a bowl of rice a day along with sleep under your work station while another worker takes the next shift.

Laurence

www.rhinoknives.com
 
What kind of knife could be made for $10 in material and one hour of labor;

My First thought was :rolleyes: " a prison shiv "

But the challenge is an interesting one. Obviously we're outside the discussion of a high end custom. I suppose it would depend on what equipment was available. Waterjet? CNC? Economy of scale?

Automation? Labour productivity?
 
I need to rephrase I think.
THE CHALLENGE: a basic knife, 3" to 4" blade with about a 4" handle. blade material in this price range would be 52100 or 1084 or 1095. Try to keep total material costs(consumables such as steel, handle material, belts, utilities, epoxy,.....) at $10-$15. try to keep your labor, actually touching the blade, to about 1 hour(heat treat time doesnt count). If you sold that knife for $30, you would make $15-$20 for an hour of labor. Equipment is whatever you have access to at home or at the office.

The economy here is North Carolina is still recovering. People who came to my table Sunday during a sidewalk sale, ooohed and ahhhed at some, but bought the $25 to $30 ones.
Scott
 
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You are grinding each blade for 4 to 5 hours or did I misunderstand?

Blade and handle assembly, including the spine, ricasso notch if any, and this is based off my 4" skinner which typically has a double bolster setup so there's a lot of chasing scratches in the 304 stainless. I'd say 5 hours is a fair estimate for that knife in time spent on the KMG with the abrasive progression all considered above.

The precision ground material is nice as all the pits are gone, but as I taper most of my tangs and my blades are hollow ground roughly 3/4ths of the blade height I'm left with such a small area the precision grinding benefits, the area under the top bolsters, the ricasso and a small wedge of blade flat I don't worry about it. A kiss of the 60 grit belt gets past any scale in just a few seconds. EDIT - I figure the price differential in the steel in the catalog. Lets say the PG material is $12.50 more expensive. Does it take me a half hour to get the raw stock to the same level of finish as the ground and take a lot of abrasives? If so, I'd go with the PG steel - if not, I'd just do it myself in the shop.

I'm going to throw out some of my "business figures" here, possibly at my disadvantage. This exact knife below costs me, in 1095 and mild steel bolsters with black micarta handle scales, less than ten dollars including abrasives. The grit progression is 40/60 Blaze, 100x blue Norax, then 45x flex Norax, some scotchbrite on the flats and hollows and around the exposed tang, a white buff session and that's it. They take 2.5 hours in quantity or less, and this includes the sheath - actual shop time varies as you mentioned above counting the furnace and epoxy. If I wanted to cut this to one hour, I couldn't put bolsters on it, but I could likely still have handle scales if I did them in batches. Take the sheath out of the equation and a 3" bushcraft knife with micarta scales and straight pins I could probably finish out in one hour of labor with my 1.5 horsepower machine and the modern abrasives.

IMG_3227.jpg
 
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Further breakdown of costs -

-Knife is slightly over 7.2" long. If I flip the pattern and nest them end to end, points reversed, I get exactly ten blanks out of a 72" bar of 1 1/4" x 1/8" 1095. Admiral Steel pricing for 10 bars plus shipping breaks down to $1.60 a knife.
-1/4" x 1 1/4" A36 flat bar is a dollar a foot locally. I can get ten sets of bolsters and a little bit of drop out of each foot. The blade rusts - hence my selection of mild steel for the bolster in this application. Just keep it oiled. $0.10 a knife.
-3/16" pin stock. This is a 4 pin knife, two in the handle and two in the bolster. I do use 304 stainless for this because it's what's on hand in huge quantity, you can see the differential in the bolster but it's attractive and shows the method of construction. 4 one inch pins comes out to be ten cents a pin. 36 feet of the stuff is around $40 on eBay. Mild steel would be cheaper yet. $0.40 for pin stock.
-1/4" black micarta comes out to be $3.00 shipped. Have to buy a couple of sheets to get an even amount of cuts sometimes but that's about it. Bigger quantities would help this a lot.

I can glue up dozens of these with a 9.00 pair of 4 ounce epoxy bottles. I do etch the logo, which is dozens of impressions per 2.00 stencil, also bought in quantity. I make my own etch pads with a huge roll of poly blanket stuffing so the price there is less than a penny. Lets say the miscellaneous costs, logo, glue, pads, drill bits, needles and thread all round up to a dollar averaged out. The sheath has $1.80 in leather in it.

We're up to $7.80 a knife. It takes just a couple of minutes to profile this thin 1/8" stock, the rough grinding takes me another two minutes. Flats are literally a minute, each side. One or two passes. The hollows take about fifteen, if that. Total grinding time on the knife including bolster profile, shaping, handle finish is around an hour. The only belt that gets any appreciable wear is the Blaze, the rest of the blade grinds are on the new stiff Norax, including the slim plunge. If I started with an entire set of belts from 60 grit, the 100x stiff Norax, a 45x flex Norax for handle finish, I'd probably be able to finish out at least 10 of these in entirety, and only the 45x flex Norax would be truly worn out. The 100x stiff back Norax would just be getting started. $2 in belt usage seems to be born out with my experience building these so far.

I'd say just under $10 in materials. My shop rate is modest. I try to sell this knife for $79-99 depending on weather it's off my site, eBay, or locally cash in hand. eBay + PayPal fees come out to 15% off the top. I could save a lot and attract the "even lighter weight" knife crowd by eliminating the bolsters but that's not my style. Bolsterless, with a sheath, it's likely to be a 1.5 hour knife and would be priced at $49. The sheaths are machine stitched at this price point, I'll say that. It would take me fifteen minutes to space, drill, and hand stitch the 4" each sheath requires and that's just not in the budget for a knife like this. When I do make this pattern out of nicer materials, higher end blade stock etc I do the sheath entirely by hand however and even tool them.
 
I suppose it would depend on what equipment was available. Waterjet? CNC? Economy of scale?

Automation? Labour productivity?

I put a lot of thought into this sort of thing. I'm pretty opinionated so bear with me - I've had to gently toss quite a few gentlemen out of my shop because they won't drop the topic of "You know, Frank, you outta farm your blade blanks out to my friend's shop halfway across the state." or the "If you have this CNC shop cut your scales you'd save a lot of money." This is also with me considering the absolute fiasco that results from having the quality of your work depend directly on the quality of your subcontractor's work. I'm a former big steel guy and it was invariably a nightmare when we'd receive pallets of pre-cut parts. Doubly bad if they had holes in them which were supposed to relate somehow to a structural drawing.

Waterjet is great, you can locate your bolster and handle holes, plus have the bolsters themselves cut out so it's just a "ream and pin" job to have them matched so you can finish the faces and miters. To make it economical, however, you've got to do a lot. Hundreds. I contacted a guy earlier this year for a bolster/blade job and it came out to be roughly $1400 in raw stock I'd have to send to make it worth everyone's time. That was a good 50 or more large stainless tool steel blades and a lot of 6" wide 304 flat bar for bolsters. It would take me an entire year to fabricate that many, and then there would be an entire day or two of his $50+ an hour shop labor to put on top of it. It works - but in larger quantity than most of us sole proprietors are going to be able to harness.

Adding this after the fact with an edit - the time savings are not as extreme as a person might think. For the Buck factory where a savings of seven cents across a million of a given model comes out to be a cool $70,000 in additional profit the waterjet is the way to go - or even a die stamping process. I can profile a small 3" knife out of 1/8" stock in three minutes - the jet might take 45 seconds. A big 8" combat bowie takes me fifteen...possibly three minutes for the machine. However, when I figure the time spent having the steel sent to another state for cutting, then them reshipping it back to me, plus costs, it's pretty much a wash with even my most optimistic of production figures even with myself and two or three other guys. We spend so little time profiling a week's worth of knives it might as well just get done in an hour on Monday then have it out of the way. I suspect the break even of "You will, for real, save money" utilizing automation to be in the ten man range, about 1500 hours monthly in production.

Same deal with the CNC, if I had them cut an entire 4' x 8' sheet of 3/8" Dymondwood into profiled and semi-rounded handle scales that would be great but then I'd be the proud owner of 650 handle scales, possibly 325 pairs if I talked them into reversing the program halfway through, of identical material. The biggest seller this year so far of a handle that was "the same" when it came to the handle shape and material selection was of about a dozen pieces in tricolor laminate. That's even with what I can spend on advertising them.

We all know about the economy of scale - stainless 1/4" shoulder corby fasteners range from $2.70 to $1.80 depending on quantity. As for automation - I would give the few decent teeth I have left for a programmable ironworker even so it can nip off bolster-sized chunks while I do other work.

Labor productivity? That is where it gets scary to me, but I'd like to say that in an employee situation some quotas of production or minutes per task are going to be necessary, with very firm conditions of employment. I'm one of the older Gen Y guys and the rest of the 30 and younger crowd continues to find novel ways to disappoint me when I offer even $15 an hour cash for a simple repetitive task. I'll leave it at that for now. I sure wish some of you guys were a lot closer and we'd get some real work done.
 
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I think this is an awesome thread and great insight for a newb into the inner workings of a fulltime knife makers world, well at least as it relates to the topic at hand. Of course I work in a production plant and am involved in data analysis and capability and efficiency projects, so perhaps this appeals more to my analytical side then might for some others. Since you have kind of gone down this path, may I continue to inquire further?

On 2nd thought, I probably shouldn’t, I want know when to stop : ) .

BTW - I am trying to prep myself to attempt bolsters for the 1st time, I never gave mild steel a consideration, but since I am forging a carbon steel, I see no reason why mild steel shouldn't be an option. Thanks for the idea.
 
Go right ahead. I can't quit either so you're not alone. I was ten cents off on my figure earlier, forgot the bolster material. If I was making a million of them I'd get fired for that. Mild steel is a dream to work, engraves, blues beautifully, you can give it differential colors with a torch and clearcoat over it. Lots of options. It does rust. In my defense of that choice, another group latched right onto that with the introduction of that particular knife. I'm honored if that and the fact that it's small, which also was a mentioned fault and was part of the design in the first place, are the first two issues found. If the blade itself will corrode, or the exposed tang, I see absolutely zero issue with the bolster being of similar stock.
 
Here's more - we're still 30 minutes over budget building that bolsterless 3" bushcraft for $49. Ways to save time - get a Tippman clicker and dies for the sheath + welt cut. Just feed the hide in from one edge, positioning it for maximum leather usage. Takes me about 2 minutes to transfer my pattern and cut it out. The clicker would pay itself off over 2000 knives or so.

Also, go down to 7/8" ounce drum dyed harness instead of the 9 ounce tooling I currently use. Then you just dye the sheath edges. Saves on dye and time for the process plus I bet it's more consistent. Takes a couple of minutes, again, to dye the sheath. The 7/8 ounce drum dye is half the price of the tooling leather per square foot from my supplier. You could save almost a dollar here in materials.

Have the knife + sheath ship together but have the "Customer do the forming". I see that a lot - a flat, stitched sheath that's undyed or oiled, with instructions to oil/plastic wrap the knife and fit it, dye it, and wax to your liking yourself. Not naming names but larger production shops do it. Genius, and it gives the customer further investment in the knife and sheath itself - a bond with the product is great for to make repeat buyers and increase perceived value. This is easily a 5 minute operation for wet forming if you do it by hand, plus another couple oiling the finished product. I see some sheaths on the market that I swear are wet vacuum or press formed around a knife-shaped mandrel - the pinch down to the knife profile is very pretty and consistent.

Possibly look into trading some material cost for speed with the steel choice. I'll have to delve deeper into it but an oil quenching steel is going to be time taken "A" and a tool wrapped steel is going to be time taken "B". Then we get into "Atmospheric or purged furnace?" I guarantee you could rock socks time wise if you just load, cycle, and pull them out without goofing with the tool wrap or a plate quench/oil bucket. I'll have to get a quote from a heat treatment service to figure that one. To do the blade grind before or after heat treatment is also worth noting. Also, are we running a cryo cycle? Mine aren't, I don't hint or suggest that I do. However, does it add value above and beyond the cost?

Again, no bolsters. That's half the fight there, flattening, fitting them, drilling, cutting cleaning and peening pins, miters, mirrored or brushed front face etc. I bet the bolster assembly plus goofing around with the handle material miter is an hour easily, so it bears out the price change.

These are just some thoughts, but on the leather die cutter, sheath material changeup and a few other things at least 10-20 minutes could be saved in a production environment immediately. I just don't have the money for it and dies right now nor the desire to stock an entire 24 square foot hide for a single sheath pattern, although it would be a good idea.
 
Thanks Frank for sharing the info. Eddie, please chime in with your toosense.
The $25-$30 plain jane paring knife idea is based on who goes to sidewalk sales and craft shows. Over half are women most of whom would not look twice at a table of skinners and hunters. Price point is upper end of "impulse buy" range. also, get them as customers who may return and get the $100 knife. folks with age like myself can remember the Chevy Biscayne, bare bones transportation sold with the hope you would trade it in for a Chevy Impala deluxe.
automation: brings to mind 7th corollary of Murphy's Law: To err is human, to totally &*$@ a process up, automate it. you can't just plug a CNC plasma cutter in and have it start spitting out perfect blanks.
outsourcing: first thoughts are the problems with quality and shipping; and not have a room full of corporate lawyers who will make other guy pay for his mistakes.
CRYO: not needed for 1084, 1095, 52100, or O-1 if heat treat is done right first time (Kevin Cashen has written many posts on this)
STEEL: doing a test with 1080+ or 80CrV2. 7-10 min soak at 1475, oil quench, temper for 30 minutes at 375. will post the Rc results when I get them.
TIME: IMHO (and TPS gurus) toyota cleaned detroits clock by making a higher quality car with half the man-hours. with each batch of knives I make, I am seeing little ways to save time and sanding belts. get rid of as many scratches and dings as you can pre-heat treat. don't use a 40grit belt if an 80 would do the same task. find the brand name belt that works the best for your situation.
the old sailor
 
Thanks Frank for sharing the info. Eddie, please chime in with your toosense.
The $25-$30 plain jane paring knife idea is based on who goes to sidewalk sales and craft shows. Over half are women most of whom would not look twice at a table of skinners and hunters. Price point is upper end of "impulse buy" range. also, get them as customers who may return and get the $100 knife. folks with age like myself can remember the Chevy Biscayne, bare bones transportation sold with the hope you would trade it in for a Chevy Impala deluxe.
automation: brings to mind 7th corollary of Murphy's Law: To err is human, to totally &*$@ a process up, automate it. you can't just plug a CNC plasma cutter in and have it start spitting out perfect blanks.
outsourcing: first thoughts are the problems with quality and shipping; and not have a room full of corporate lawyers who will make other guy pay for his mistakes.
CRYO: not needed for 1084, 1095, 52100, or O-1 if heat treat is done right first time (Kevin Cashen has written many posts on this)
STEEL: doing a test with 1080+ or 80CrV2. 7-10 min soak at 1475, oil quench, temper for 30 minutes at 375. will post the Rc results when I get them.
TIME: IMHO (and TPS gurus) toyota cleaned detroits clock by making a higher quality car with half the man-hours. with each batch of knives I make, I am seeing little ways to save time and sanding belts. get rid of as many scratches and dings as you can pre-heat treat. don't use a 40grit belt if an 80 would do the same task. find the brand name belt that works the best for your situation.
the old sailor

Scott,
If you where to make a 3- 3 13" Paring for the ladies you could get a profit maker sold for let's say $34.95 ?
My first suggestion is go with stainless cause if the rust up most ladies won't buy another one.

I sell a lot of culinary to men & women. Women are more likely to come back and buy them for gifts for the family & friends and repeat customers is a big part of the battle.

I would go with a 1/16' stock of 440C, Bright colors of Dynawood, That 3- 3 1/2" a handle of no more than a 4"
What is referred to as a three piece knife. If you had the blanks waterjetted and HTed at Buck knives with a simple flat or hollow ground blade you may get this to be a money maker if your cost of sales is low enoungh and your hands fast.

Advertising, internet, Table cost, flyers , cards, Gasoline etc.. is what I am reffering to as cost of sales for this little adventure.

I have to get to the shop and open up so I will post more on this latter.

Laurence

www.rhinoknives.com
 
It sound like Both you and Frank have more formal cost analysis training than I do. What I can say from making and selling knives for my livelihood since 98 is that it always cost more than I think it does.

No matter how good it looks on paper I add about 50% again of my costs for unforeseen things.
I feel doing this gives me a more realistic approach to my actual hard costs, cost of sales, wear and tear on machinery and wear and tear on me!:biggrin:

I just had my second trigger finger surgery due to knife making last spring and my out of pocket cost on that was about $500.00 for the Doctor and Meds etc. That is just one example.

Build your prototype of this paring knife and then I would have , Say 100 of the blanks water jet cut.

Also Here are a few thoughts about water jet work.
Water Jet folks are not all created equal. You can get a quote from Niagara Metals.
http://www.nsm-ny.com Of how much to cut and ship 100 of these blanks out of 440C or CPM-154 ?
There are other supplier & cutters.

I buy the steel from Niagara in New York, Have it shipped to my man Jay at http://www.waterjettech.com In Mo, who doesn't have a set up charge and only charges for a rate of feed on the cutter which is less the thinner the stock. Then I have the blanks shipped to me in California. This saves time. Time=money.
Jay also does the best out of the three or four water & Laser cutters I have used.

Laurence

www.rhinoknives.com
 
Really interesting reading here fellas.

I shoot for something like this-

$5 steel
$35 handle material
$10 The rest of the crap you need to make a knife
$20 Abrasives
$5 Sheath supplies

Total of $75 material cost.

$900 30 man hours x 30

This brings my sale price to $975

$487.50 50% Surcharge added to all products. Let's call this the "Artist" fee.


$1462.50 Final price.

Anyone want to buy a 4" hunter :biggrin:

Seriously though it's awesome to see your cost analysis Frank. Profitability is a major concern for anyone considering knifemaking as their source of income. I've given it much thought myself but I'm not deterred in spite of that ;)

-Josh
 
Laurence - do you have a thread out on that trigger finger surgery? My right index finger which I mentioned before is not improving - although it's got 50 years left in it I bet. Just wanting to get a look at what's coming sooner or later.

Josh - I have seen carbon steel knives at that price. I've read shop rates in the $65.00 - $105.00 range an hour for some of the industry icons. Those are not attainable without a ABS Mastersmith + 25 full time years and likely some industry innovation you created, however. The $75 material cost is just about on the money for my 4" knife - I typically have a little less in the handle and a little more in the blade stock if it's out of CPM 154CM or S30V.
 
You can read a bit about my pain & discomfort LOL.

http://knifedogs.com/showthread.php?29767-The-Great-Bruce-Bump-File-Guide-Give-Away-Contest!

You need to go to a hand surgeon. The Dr that did mine did it 14 minutes for the second one. The first ones didn't go as well and was closer to one hour.

My advice here Frank is to Get Her Done! My whole arm was starting to cramp up from just the pinky on my right hand needing to be fixed.

I am sure if you google "Trigger Finger" more stuff than you will ever want to read on it will pop up.
here is one did bit of information for you. http://www.assh.org/Public/HandConditions/Pages/TriggerFinger.aspx

Keep the Faith!

Laurence

www.rhinoknives.com
 
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