Welding Machine

G

grant

Well-Known Member
What are the requirements for a machine to prep damascus billets for forge welding?

I'm planning to get a couple of 220v outlets wired in my shop, but I would prefer to have something that will run on 110v.

By the way, I have zero welding experience, so this is going to be a bit of an adventure.
 
An actual stick or MIG welder is often used (but is not required) in the process of making damascus to keep the layers of the billet together so basically any welder will do that part of the process. Forge welding damascus most usually refers to the process of heating billets (several layers of different steels) of layered steel up to a high temperature and then pressing (or hammering) them together so they stick (weld) together into one solid piece of metal. Maybe you could rephrase your question?
 
Sorry, I didn't ask that question very well. The question I should have asked is if the $400 Lincoln Electric 125 AMP stick/mig welder they have at places like Lowes would serve to tack the billets together.

You answered that despite my unclear question. Thanks!
 
You can "get the job done" with a 110V portable welder, such as the Lincoln "Weld-Pak" machines you see at Home depot, but it's much easier with a 220V MIG welder. The way that I do it is to stack up my billet(s) using an old milling machine vise (one of these days I'm going to build myself and air vise for this purpose), and then run a very shallow bead across the edges of the stack....one near what will be the front, another across the middle, one BOTH sides. I then set the billet up so that the end I will weld the handle on is facing up. I use old rebar for handles. I position the piece of rebar in the center of the end (the end that I did not run a weld bead across previously), then weld the handle to the billets, and run a bead from the handle to the outer edges of that end. The important part is that you want to make a SHALLOW bead... just enough weld penetration to hold everything together. I then do my first forge weld, and then I grind off ALL the weld beads on the EDGES. If you fail to do this, or miss some weld bead, it will end up in the finished billets as an "ugly grey glob". From there it's just a matter of continuing forge welding, restacking to achieve my desired number of layers, and any manipulations to achieve my end goal with the pattern.
There are some folks who still use the method of wiring a billet together, but compared to MIG or Stick welding the initial billet together, the wire is just a pain in the backside.
 
Thanks for the refresher Ed. I remember the process more or less from Jim's hammer-in. I've got copious notes thanks to Neil Ashworth and lots of photos of the process thanks to my wife.

I was looking at the 125A and 140A 110v MIG/flux-core Lincoln. For $150 more than the 140A, I suppose I could go for the 220v 180A. I guess I can use flux-core wire until I can afford gas. Already operating pretty close the the redline with this "hobby."

What size wire would you use for MIG and for flux-core? The datasheet I has assumes you're joining identical thickness materials.

Also, what's the gas used for MIG welding? Argon/CO2?

Now to find an electrician to come wire up a couple of 220v outlets in the garage.
 
Wire sizes for MIG machines range from .025 to .040" and even some other sizes on "special" machines. Most often you see .035 wire....the machine will dictate the wire size. Flux core will work.

Personally for the gas, I use straight CO2.....I can't afford the Argon/CO2 gas. :) Besides, most of the welds I make get ground away anyway....so if they hold through the initial forge weld, I'm good to go.
 
I use a 110v big depot mig welder with flux core wire, and if you can, try to set up 220v with gas. There can be a lot of stray splatter and flux residue that might cause lost time and materials to deal with. I (just me) have an iffy time keeping the handle on reliably with flux core and the smaller welder, just don't get good penetration of the weld when it would be really helpful. I also think a good mig would come in handy for tons of other odds and ends projects.

Take care, Craig
 
Have a Hobart Handler 140. I used it with flux core for a year and a half and recently upgraded to using CO2. I have not felt I needed more machine for damascus prep. However I would not trust my welds with it on somthing structural or that was going on the road, like a trailer. For those things I would want a bigger welder and more skill.
 
As Ed says, you will only need your welds to hold until the billet is welded to itself. I used an "Offshore" flux core mig for years that I bought for $70. It wasnt the best but it worked. Im getting a Hobart 185 next, a bit beefier, and will allow a lot mor MIG applications for other projects. Remember, you "may" start building yourself other tooling and equipment once you get rolling, so a bit more versitile welder may be a thought. I fully understand that this hobby cab "redline" your budget in a Hurry!!! I always check out craigslist and the pawn shops before I make any purchases these days, been pretty lucky as of late!

Good Luck and God Bless
Mike
 
Since your just starting off Mig is the best choice, also I wouldn't suggest anything under 140 amps. You can always turn a big machine down for welding thin stock but you can't turn a little machine up for thick stock.

Also don't forget to wear a good respirator with P100 filters while welding, the steel we work with has some nasty alloying elements in it that you don't want to breath in.
 
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