Rusty McDonald
KNIFE MAKER
A lot of people have problems hand sanding so I thought I'd share some of the tricks I use that I have picked up.
First of all you will not have as much to hand sand if your finish when you heat treat is good. I take my blades down to 400g before I HT but that's just me. Remember the better finish you start with the less you will have to do in the end.
Clamp it down to a solid surface. I put mine on the 2" edge of a 2x6 that is clamped into a vise on my work bench. and clamp the blade to it with a ratchet clamp. Careful of the point it will get you. (ASK ME HOW I KNOW lol)
First of all I use my old Klingspor belts to start off my hand sanding, they are flexible and cloth backed and this makes them durable enough to put a little pressure on but flexible enough to get into the plunge line. I start with 120g and finish with the 220g, Mind you these belts are the old ones I don't use on my grinder any more. I cut them in to about 8" strips.
also when I start to sand I have a brass bar 1.5" x .25 that has leather glued on one side and is brass only on the other side. I start with the brass side for the rough grits and above 220g I use the brass first then the Leather to give it a better finish
I have found by trial and error mostly that going in multiple directions the scratches come out quicker. I try to go diagonally and then strait and finish in one direction from plunge to tip.
Change your sand paper when it gets clogged up! your not helping your self by trying to save a dollar on sand paper use that stuff! And Lubricate the blade I use WD-40 mostly because I like the way it works for me. Some use Windex or Tap magic or water, really anything will work just to keep the paper from clogging up, it's kind of a preference thing. Try any thing as long as you like it and it works for you.
Wipe off he blade regularly the grit under the paper can scratch the blade and make more work than started with.
There will be more when I can remember more hope this helps.
I just remembered I have a piece of micarta with a quarter rounded side and one that i put an angle on to get into tight places like under the ricaso this is one place that is often over looked.
I also have both flourescent and incandescent lights at the sanding area. I frequently check with the hand held flourescent to look for those little scratches. I also check it in day light and regular shop lighting to find those remaining scratches.
--nathan
Just wanted to add to nathan's post, I use an optivisor to examine for scratches between each grit change
From Mike Griffin
A few things I have learned the hard way:
-Use sandpaper like it is free.
-If you want an 800 grit finish, finish the blade to 1500 then make about 10 straight passes with dry 800 changing to fresh paper for every pass.
-Never get lazy and convince yourself that the last little bit of that one scratch will come out with the next grit.
-It just plain takes time.
-Mike
First of all you will not have as much to hand sand if your finish when you heat treat is good. I take my blades down to 400g before I HT but that's just me. Remember the better finish you start with the less you will have to do in the end.
Clamp it down to a solid surface. I put mine on the 2" edge of a 2x6 that is clamped into a vise on my work bench. and clamp the blade to it with a ratchet clamp. Careful of the point it will get you. (ASK ME HOW I KNOW lol)
First of all I use my old Klingspor belts to start off my hand sanding, they are flexible and cloth backed and this makes them durable enough to put a little pressure on but flexible enough to get into the plunge line. I start with 120g and finish with the 220g, Mind you these belts are the old ones I don't use on my grinder any more. I cut them in to about 8" strips.
also when I start to sand I have a brass bar 1.5" x .25 that has leather glued on one side and is brass only on the other side. I start with the brass side for the rough grits and above 220g I use the brass first then the Leather to give it a better finish
I have found by trial and error mostly that going in multiple directions the scratches come out quicker. I try to go diagonally and then strait and finish in one direction from plunge to tip.
Change your sand paper when it gets clogged up! your not helping your self by trying to save a dollar on sand paper use that stuff! And Lubricate the blade I use WD-40 mostly because I like the way it works for me. Some use Windex or Tap magic or water, really anything will work just to keep the paper from clogging up, it's kind of a preference thing. Try any thing as long as you like it and it works for you.
Wipe off he blade regularly the grit under the paper can scratch the blade and make more work than started with.
There will be more when I can remember more hope this helps.
I just remembered I have a piece of micarta with a quarter rounded side and one that i put an angle on to get into tight places like under the ricaso this is one place that is often over looked.
I also have both flourescent and incandescent lights at the sanding area. I frequently check with the hand held flourescent to look for those little scratches. I also check it in day light and regular shop lighting to find those remaining scratches.
--nathan
Just wanted to add to nathan's post, I use an optivisor to examine for scratches between each grit change
From Mike Griffin
A few things I have learned the hard way:
-Use sandpaper like it is free.
-If you want an 800 grit finish, finish the blade to 1500 then make about 10 straight passes with dry 800 changing to fresh paper for every pass.
-Never get lazy and convince yourself that the last little bit of that one scratch will come out with the next grit.
-It just plain takes time.
-Mike
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