Thoughts on tapered tang

Matt de Clercq

Matt de Clercq

Well-Known Member
I recently did some homework and tried to do a couple tapered tangs. The tang came out clean and even but where the taper stops is a problem. I don't want to stop it where the scale or bolster rests and I want my flat work to be flat but if I end it where my bevels are then my bevels are sloppy/uneven. Is the only way around this to do a full flat grind on a knife with a tapered tang to hide the angle point?
 
Since you're asking about a flat grind, can I assume you're doing "hollow" grinds? There are basically two options to achieve what you're looking for (if I'm understanding correctly).....
1. Build the knives with a distal taper.....with the flats ending/overlapping just in front of the front of the bolster(s).....there will be a "high" spot there, but.....if you hand finish, the only way anyone could ever tell is if they use a micrometer on it.

2. Redesign the particular knife with the tapered tang in mind....meaning that you'd want to give yourself a bit more room between the plunges and the front of the bolsters.

Just as a side note, I personally think that the idea of "flat" ricassos is over rated......I can't remember the last time I ever built a knife that had "flats" that were not distal tapers.....after building and testing knives that incorporate distal tapers, it's hard for me to understand why someone would build a knife any other way......at least from a using perspective.
 
As Ed said a full distal taper on the tang to the plunge line works well and that the way I do my with a full flat grind in the blade and a full vertical flat grind on the tang. It does mean that you are limited in the shape of how the butt end of the tang is. For me round ends don't work with a tapered tang.
 
Thanks for your time guys. I may need to start incorporating a 2" ricasso into my design.:what!: This will be cool to try. Lately i have done away with the ricasso (except for in front of guards) and been doing a mirror finish.
 
Again, thanks for the help. I decided to try a tang taper and distal taper on a piece of 01 because I was expecting to screw it up but to my surprise I think it came out really good. The hollow grind fit nicely into the taper and it wasn't too hard to end the tapers in the half inch I planned for it. It was way harder trying to explain to my wife why this is so cool. image.jpgimage.jpg
 
A couple of suggestions for you,
Look at some pictures of tapered tangs & hollow grinds on some pictures of The drop point hunter by the late Mr. Bob Loveless. He was one of the first modern custom knife makers to put these two together as far as I know.

Also drill out your pin holes and use the center of a 2" wheel to take steel out of the middle of the handle area by making a little hollow grind in the middle. If you do these first it will make it easier to do your tapered tang and lighten things up as well.
 
All I have is a grizzly with a 10" wheel so my ditch grinds didn't get very deep. Another excuse to upgrade! I haven't studied Mr. Loveless yet so this is a good excuse to do that too. Thank you for your time.
 
To hollow out the handle end on a tapered tang, could you use the Boss's small wheel holder and a 1 inch wheel? I've been wanting to try a tapered tang and read the tutorial by John Barker. Since I already have the small wheel holder and a 1 inch wheel, I was going to give it a try with what I have or should I buy a 2 inch wheel?
 
phatjohn said:
To hollow out the handle end on a tapered tang, could you use the Boss's small wheel holder and a 1 inch wheel? I've been wanting to try a tapered tang and read the tutorial by John Barker. Since I already have the small wheel holder and a 1 inch wheel, I was going to give it a try with what I have or should I buy a 2 inch wheel?
Click to expand...

Both a 1 or 2 inch wheel on a small wheel holder will work fine. the 1" will be a little easier to get in the center the first few times. I always leave 1/4" of flat around the edges of the hollowed tapered tang to makes good contact for the epoxy to seal out moisture when I attach the scales.
 
Matt,
That came out great! Looks like a smooth transition from hollow to taper. Now its time to make another one.
 
Yep

This knife is now my new favorite. It's hard to put down. I have done a few more tapered tangs since this one and really like them.
 
Looks good. I always wondered about why people hollow out the tang before tapering. However not having done any myself, it doesn't make as much sense yet.
 
Mudman said:
Looks good. I always wondered about why people hollow out the tang before tapering. However not having done any myself, it doesn't make as much sense yet.
Click to expand...
Hogging out hollows saves time and makes getting flat tapers easier, as you have less steel to bring down perfectly flat. The hollows grind out fast and much easier than having to bring the entire surface down by flat grinding. You will see if you try it both ways.
 
Taper it even more to the butt end for a more dramatic look to it. I agree this attempt looks very nice. It is certainly easier to hollow the handle area first because of the fact you have less material to contend it doing the taper.
 
LRB said:
Hogging out hollows saves time and makes getting flat tapers easier, as you have less steel to bring down perfectly flat. The hollows grind out fast and much easier than having to bring the entire surface down by flat grinding. You will see if you try it both ways.
Click to expand...
Appreciate the clarity.
 
Another point guys is to use belts that you have already used up mostly on your bevels.
These second string belts will work fine to taper tangs and I never waste a fresh belt on tapering.
 
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