Talk to me about knife handles

wmhammond

Well-Known Member
Hello:

Yesterday I posted pics of a "Fake" knife that I had just finished. In that post I described the techniques I used to make it. When I described my process of shaping the handle I said I just "freehanded it until it fit my hand". In the comments I got back 2 people mentioned that the handle looked to be too thick. To be honest, I have never thought about the handle as I contemplated this knifemaking learning experience. I was worried, and still am, about whether I had the skill set to properly grind the blade and work the steel to produce a proper knife. In all the videos and all I have read the instruction is focused on the steel and how it is worked but very little is said about the proper size and shape of the handle.

Apparently, there is a some pretty well defined things about the handle that I don't know, and need to know, before I tackle the "real" knife project. I wonder if someone could take the time to briefly describe the theory of the handle: How it is proportioned, how it is shaped, how it works in the usage of the knife, etc. I know that the shaping of the steel is the hardest part of making a knife and I'm aware that I skipped that part in making my "fake" knife but as it turns out, I'm glad I did or this wouldn't have to come to light for me. Thanks very much for your help,

Wallace
 
The steel may be harder to work but I've seen way more knives with fair blades and really bad handles than knives with good handles and really bad blades.

A handle should be comfortable first. Form follows function. It should be aesthetically pleasing with every line and curve looking like it was done that way on purpose. It shouldn't look like you grabbed a blob of play-dough and squeezed it. There should be nothing sharp or pokey on it. It doesn't have to be super elaborate or sculpted to look right or feel right. But they shouldn't be blocky, chunky or have weird spots that blur the lines between crisp points and gentle curves.

A lot of people make a decent handle but lose it on the butt end. Make corners and edges crisp and distinct, not sharp, but crisp and definable. Curves should be flowing and pleasing to the eye, and looking graceful and elegant. Not wavy and uneven.

Most handles are thinner in both height and width at the front, near the blade, and get thicker and taller near the butt end. This is not always the case but it usually works out best that way. Well made folders are one area where you see the reverse of this, but they are still pleasing to the eye and have nice flow.

Those are things that I try to achieve and what I like in a good handle.
 
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I agree with John that there are more poor handle than blades.

There should be no edges on a well made handle. Sort of like how a worn dry bar of soap feels in your hands.

A palm swell that tapers in if the front and relives the pinky from being over stretched is a great start.

A properly shaped handle will make the knife feel like part of your hand and another thing I will add is that it's better to have a handle a little too big that too small. Where they are too small you will always be squeezing the knife to get a better grip which results in hand fatigue.
 
Yep, what they said.

Also, if at all possible, try to handle as many knives as possible. If there is a hammer-in or knife show near you it is a great opportunity for this. Examine the handle for how it feels in the hand, not just in the standard grip but in several different grips, take note of what you like about it and what you would change. I like ergonomic handles, but some designs only work in certain grips and are uncomfortable in others... these days I prefer a simple shape over one that may look cool as heck and feel great, as long as you hold the knife a certain way... in the real world I feel a knife needs to be comfortable in a wide variety of different grips. Notice the simple purity of a katana's handle, it is impossible to improve upon for its intended use... A few hours of hard use will let you know if the handle shape is ideal if you pay attention.
 
Good point Laurence, about hand fatigue.

Also good point George, about sculpted handles. I've seen a few that were beautifully done, but so sculpted that they locked your hand into one grip only.
 
Awesome points above! i enjoyed readin this. Oh and the ole stropping method on the spine of the handle is always a winner to avoid block handle syndrome.
 
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