Stencil problem

Freds Edge

Freds Edge

Well-Known Member
I was wondering if anyone has had a problem with stencils when switching to AC voltage , I've had 2 burn out with just a couple of quick applications.
 
There's no real reason for burning stencil just because you switch to AC voltage. A couple of questions, what voltages are you using for DC and for AC? How long are you holding pad on stencil at each phase? From what I've read (and happened to me) the quickest way to burn a stencil is to hold pad direct on stencil too long at a time. There should be VERY little (if any) heat build up during etching process. Put pad on stencil, count 1 Alabama, 2 Alabama, Roll Tide 3, lift pad from stencil for a couple of seconds. Repeat about 10 times or so, switch to AC and do the same thing. The trip is NEVER keep the pad on stencil longer than 2 to 3 seconds at a time to prevent heat built up. Lifting pad also allows gas to escape to make a sharper etch.

Ken H>
 
What Ken said!
Plus I spray the blade with a light spritz of Windex just before I tape the stencil down. That keeps things cooler and helps prevent fogging.
 
Ken , I quite sure it's 12 V DC and the AC I don't recall . I built the etcher from Ernie G. plans , I have not had this problem in the past but I purchased some etching fluid from the Boss and I may have been a little heavy handed.
 
Fred what etchant did you buy? I just bought some to it is not here yet but just curious. I have been using salt water and thought I would get some real stuff
 
That's what I bought too. I will be following the thread. I have a homemade etcher too.
I will let you know what happens when mine gets in.
 
Freds Edge said:
Justin I purchased the electrolyte 110A , it's a universal for carbon and stainless.
Click to expand...

Hi Fred, I just read your thread and was wondering if you solved your etching problems. I am curious because I am having the same issues too after buying some electrolyte from the boss. I talked directly to Patricia Bruno of I.M.G about my problem and she concluded that I was using the wrong electrolyte for the deep etch "E-600" and I was toasting my stencils. I mostly etch stainless, so she suggested using the SC-44 for the deep etch then going to the E-600 for the black mark at the bottom of my deep etch. I did what she suggested and bought the SC-44 from boss. Still having problems getting a decent etch! With that being said, I have been etching my blades for over 25 years and know the procedure for getting a clean etch. All that is blown out of the water since I have this new electrolyte, It's like I'm two years old learning all over again. The only thing I can figure out is the new electrolyte is so fresh and powerfull that I have to train myself all over again how to etch ????
Sincerely,
Clint
 
Fred I just tried the 110A last night and it did not burn my stencil but it did seem to take a bit longer to get a deep etch compared to the salt water solution I was using. It did however leave much less ghosting and fogging around my mark.
 
Clint , I am a very low production maker , but what I can tell you is that my last etch came out well . I was not looking for a deep etch , that saying the next time I'm looking for a strong etch I will keep my contact time short and clean the stencil as soon as done .
 
Interesting the response from Patricia of IMG - She sent me 110A solution for etching Stainless. I've not yet done a good comparison to my normal solution. We'll try that soon.

I think Fred has the right idea with"keep my contact time short and clean the stencil". The only thing that "should" fry a stencil is too much heat. Heat is generated with current and time of contact. Never keep pad in contact with stencil more than 2 or 3 seconds at a time. If work is getting warm, decrease voltage or time of contact.

Something to check is the DC (and AC) voltage between work and pad(brass or carbon) without contact being made, then watch voltage as pad is placed on work. Voltage should drop a volt or 2. "Typically" the DC open voltage will be around 15 to 20 VDC, depending on transformer used.

Ken H>
 
Thanks for the input guys! Looks like I have some some tinkering to do. My etching machine is an older Lectroetch 10amp model with variable voltage, has a amp meter on it that barely moves when I etch and I keep the power level @ 40%. I will try a lower setting and quicker touch time to see if it helps? Funny I never had problems until I got this new electolyte, before I rack my brain to much, I should just order some of the original solution LNC-3 from electroetch and eliminate that possible problem.
Clint
 
It may well be the new solution could be a LOT more conductive than the original stuff you've been using, that would make the heat more at same voltage level. Yep, I see folks talking about needing a high amperage model for etching - not at all for the small logos typically used by knifemakers.

Ken
 
some things to consider:

stencils break down very quickly if not cleaned after use. Use the stencil upside down on some steel scrap to remove any screen clogging.

rinse the stencils in neutralizer, then some water. let them dry flat.

Keep them out of UV light. That is what set them off in the first place.

The biggest killer of stencils is just too much amperage and heat pushing through them. Doing a slower etch is better than saving a minute. You will get a better etch also.

If you can hear it sizzle, your amps are too high.

There are several kinds of stencil material. Some may not like different etch solutions. Trial and error will help. Most solutions are interchangeable but who knows.
 
Are you fellas marking after or before HT? I think I have better luck before, if it does even make a difference. I use a 4amp battery charger. I replaced the large clips with small alligator clips. i also use salt solution with a cotton ball 2 seconds on 2 off repeating then change leads and repeat.
 
Electro-Etch before heat treat? As a general rule, I think electro-etching is done after heat treat and after the blade is pretty well finished. For a good etch the blade needs at least 400 grit finish to give a clean etch.

Later
 
Ken, I do take it to 400 grit--- pre-HT I'll have to test it out next etch, I'm curious to know if it burns in faster (easier) pre to post.
 
Even with SS foil over blade for heat treating, there is still more clean required (for me anyway) than a normal electro-etch would handle. They are pretty shallow etched. BUT - if it works for you, go for it.

Ken H>
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top