Spalted beech

LiamLynch

LiamLynch

Well-Known Member
I have been given by the sibling, a rather nice piece of spalted beech, enough for two handles maybe. It is dry but not stabilised so would I need to stabilise it to use it. I don't want to if I don't have to. Realistically what would happen if it was left without stabilising? I want to keep the light color if I can.
 
Liam, I'm not familiar with spalted beech specifically but if it behaves like any of the other spalted woods I've handled in both wood turning and knife making, it will need to be stabilized. The process which creates the spalting leaves the wood with varying densities though out the piece as it is basically rotting. And even if it wasn't spalted, much depends on how the piece was cut and how the grain is oriented as well as how you finish it. Posting a few shots of the block would go a long way in assessing it but it the end, stabilizing seems best.
 
Without it being stabilized like mentioned it will be not a good choice to be used as a knife handle because of the strength/quality issue. There are several who do that kind of work. Look at the bottom of the main forum page for wood stabilizers or do a goggle search!
It makes a great handle when stabilized however the process will darken it some.

I used to know a man who made jewelry boxes from spalted oak. He made two versions the un-stabilized and the stabilized. The un-stabilized were crooked, as the wood usually moved after being cut and moisture changes effected it greatly! Granted they were cheaper than the stabilized version but they looked it too and they were also prone to more breakage! With any spalted wood stabilization is the way to go! IMHO
 
Stabilize it. Beach is too soft on it's own and the spalting, actually partial rotting, has made it even softer. I would use no spalted wood without stabilizing it. The partial rotting creates punky areas in the wood that are too soft. I also recommend that you send it out to one of the professionals so that it's done right. I lost a lot of spalted wood that I tried to stabilize with Nelsonite only to find out that that product would not harden wood or keep it from warping. Actually, I'm hard pressed to say what that product does except make the wood stink. I also found the Minwax Woodhardener is also sub par. On top of that it's just not cost effective do a few sticks for yourself even if you do work with something that will do the job right.

Doug
 
Liam,
As noted it needs to be stabilized and the Mini-wax type do it yourself is a waste of time & money. Put it aside and wait until you have a box load to have it done professionally.

I have a few blocks of assorted Maple and other stuff that I had professionally done I will give you if you cover the postage to Scotland? PM me if you wish with your address and we can make arrangements.

Laurence

www.rhinoknives.com
 
I guess I am odd man out. I would use floor grade water based polyurethane(Varathane) or Deftane, Hi gloss. at least 4 coats. with the Deftane(oil based polyurethane that dries clear and doesn't color the wood) I would thin the first coat 50/50 with thinner, the second coat 75/25thinner, the next 3 not thinned. sand between each coat. Unless you are making a survival knife that is going to be beaten, banged, soaked in water ......., a poly finish should last for many years. If you use the water based poly, you could have 4 or 5 hand rubbed coats done in the time it would take to get the wood together, package it and get it to the post office.
the old sailor
 
I'm going yo get it stabilised I think then. I know a place that does it, it expensive but I will mostly use micarta anyway. Are there any woods that do not need stabilised? It pretty much doubles the cost here.
 
There are several woods that don't need stabilizing. Lignum vitae, both Old World and New World species are so dense and oily that they can't be stabilized. Most of the Rosewood species, which includes African Blackwood, don't need stabilization and, again, some can't be. Osage Orange can be but doesn't need it. There are actually few woods that need stabilization. Did you ever wonder how our grandparents' knives ever held up with handles of unstabilized woods? The ones that need stabilization are spalted woods, most burles, and a soft woods like cedar.

Doug
 
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