paring knife

6

69*camaro

Well-Known Member
This is my first post. I never considered my work good enough. I posted this primarily to show off the Maple Burl that I purchased from Mike928. It is a little thick in the tang, but she wanted it to be heavier in the hand than my normal. Hope you like it. Thanks Mike!

Bryce Eller
 

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Constructive criticism would be appreciated. The blade is cpm154, bolsters are stainless and my photography stinks. I do not have leather tools or skills yet, so I made the wooden sheath to protect the blade in the kitchen drawer.
 
I like it, looks well made. The only thing I would change for the next one would be to bevel the front of the bolsters to 45 degrees. Thats my preference only.
 
Bryce, much like Garry, the only issue would be one of preference. I cook three large meals a day and have come to appreciate Japanese style blades over their Western counterpart mainly because they don't utilize a "Ricasso." Rather they allow the sharpened blade to run the full length which makes using it slightly less cumbersome and sharpening a million times easier. Aside from that mundane observation, your knife looks impressive. Its an honor to have provided that piece of maple for such a knife.

Regards,
Mike
 
None of this is written in stone, but here are a few suggestions.

The basic profile is a good one for some Paring knives.
The steel is unnecessarily thick. Think of cutting strawberries, Mushrooms and doing garnish work. For a Paring knife 1/8" or 3/32" are more in line with the thinner blade you want and what I use. I would save the bolsters for a Hunter/Fighter knife. They are a carry over from swords and other combative weapons.

Your wooden Says is a nice idea and making it smaller & contouring it to the blade profile would make it a bit more attractive to a customer.

With as high as the handle is, You can make more clearance on the bottom of the handle for fingers and board clearance. Last I would radius the handle more, Its a little blocky.

You are off to a great start. I hope my critic helps you?

Laurence

www.rhinoknives.com
 
Love it! the one thing I noticed has all ready been addressed. Contouring the blade to gain more board clearance.
 
By contouring the blade, do you mean to lower the cutting edge or raise the handle? Thanks for the ideas!!!
 
69*camaro said:
By contouring the blade, do you mean to lower the cutting edge or raise the handle? Thanks for the ideas!!!
Click to expand...

You can do this on this Knife.

Your bottom of handle is very straight. I would use my 5" contact wheel or whatever you have and put a arch in the bottom of the handle to give a bit more room for fingers and to match the arch on the top of the handle. If you have a small wheel attachment you can relieve a index finger cut out as well?
Work slowly to not over heat the wood etc. you are welcome to look at my site for some ideas?
It of course doesn't have to look like one of mine, Just look for some ideas.

Hope this helps?

Laurence

www.rhinoknives.com
 
I like the look of it and with a little tweaking would be a knife I'd enjoy using. As you asked for some critique I'll offer up my 2 cents

Fit and finish looks great. No gaps that I can see, dovetailed bolsters, even polish, and fancy wood, what's not to like.

I never use a paring knife to cut on a board, using them solely for in hand work so that is of no concern to me. A lot of paring knives have the blade edge in line with the base of the handle to allow greater control, so it really depends on how the knife is to be used. I think the handle shape could be tweaked for ergonomics, but that is a personal thing so the feedback that's needed is from the user of the knife. Saying this I would definitely ease the front of the bolsters, I have an Itou petty that is extremely uncomfortable due to the sharp corners on the bolster. If you look at Kramer's Meiji style handles you see how they can be sculpted for comfort.

I'd be surprised if the tip on the knife survives for long being so thin and pointy. Paring knives often get twisted in foods and so tips are vulnerable to snapping off. This is different to snapping through misuse as its not being used as a pry bar, but in due course for what a paring knife is used for.

I would also grind an edge on the full length of the blade as I find it so much easier to sharpen, but as it doesn't see board time I don't worry so much with parers as I don't have to worry about the heel hitting before the blade.
 
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