Parafin for Wateproofing a Leather Sheath?

J

Jim T

Active Member
Question for all you experienced sheath makers...

I want to waterproof a sheath I made from vegetable tanned leather (approx. 7 oz.). I've read on other threads that people recommend a 50-50 blend of neatsfoot oil and beeswax as a waterproofing medium. Rather than beeswax, can parafin (candle) wax be used?

Jim
 
This is one of those subjects that we always have two camps of thought.Personally I don't believe in waxing leather,I was taught to use Leather Sheen or Tan-kote and that has served me well for 20 years even in wet field conditions.One of the waxer's will be by shortly to answer your original question, as I am not 100% sure.Dave:)
 
I've done more than a few. I don't wax them any more but your formula is right. Using a double boiler, melt 1/2 wax with 1/2 neatsfoot oil (by volume). Don't get it more than 150 degrees or you will fry the leather. Dip the leather into the wax, let it bubble for just a few seconds and pull it out. Mold it if want while it is still hot as it cools down. Scrape or wipe off the excess wax. Done.
 
There was a tutorial on dipping sheaths out there for awhile. It was beeswax, neatsfoot oil, and mink oil I think.... Googler up and see if its still out there. :D
 
I haven't dipped a sheath in a while so the recipe might be slipping away

IIRC

U take a block of parafin wax

mix in some mink oil and a couiple hunks of beeswax

I used to use the finger test...dip finger in wax and if it doesnt make you scream like a girl, then its prolly ok

now I just use tan Kote applied liberally on the inside and neatlac or leather Sheen applied liberally on the outside
 
This is a subject that has caused me to wonder for years. What I wonder about is why any one would want to intentionally create a vessel that would hold water out of a sheath. If it does get wet inside, then even with the wax treatment it would be the same long drawn out drying procedure so where's the advantage?

I use the same products in the same manner as the other guys and have had very satisfactory results. TanKote and NeatLac do the job for me without even the chance of residual excessive wax to clean up and contend with. There is the added advantage of no mixing, cooking and taking a chance on over heating the leather.

Paul
 
Paul Long said:
This is a subject that has caused me to wonder for years. What I wonder about is why any one would want to intentionally create a vessel that would hold water out of a sheath. If it does get wet inside, then even with the wax treatment it would be the same long drawn out drying procedure so where's the advantage?

I use the same products in the same manner as the other guys and have had very satisfactory results. TanKote and NeatLac do the job for me without even the chance of residual excessive wax to clean up and contend with. There is the added advantage of no mixing, cooking and taking a chance on over heating the leather.

Paul
Click to expand...


'nuff said!
 
I dip 95% of my sheaths. My recipe is a little unique. 50% parafin wax and 50% toilet rings. Bees wax can be a little pricey at the Hobby Lobby type stores. The toilet rings are cheap and made from a sticky wax type substance. They melt down and combine nicely with the parafin wax and the combo completely weather proofs a sheath.
 
I have never dipped a sheath myself. But a guy told me those toilet rings are beeswax. he gets them from a plumber. He uses paraffin, toilet rings, and neatsfoot oil in equal parts.
 
Toilet rings..... The resourcefulness of the knifemaker never ceases to amaze me. Thanks for the feedback, everyone.

Hey, Bossdog, how do you protect your knife while it's in the sheath?

Jim
 
I either use Feibings "Leather Balm With Atom Wax", or Tan Kote. The Leather Balm is the most used, I rarely use the Tan Kote unless specifically requested.

I've never hot dipped leather, its just counter intuitive to me. Heat hurts leather.
 
I always wax a knife, including the blade, before I put it away for awhile. I use Classic Wax (a bri-wax clone)..
 
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