Paper Wheel

John W im sorry I was joking , im left handed so i put my wheels on the other sides. John barker I would buy one tommorrow and never look back. The only thing better is the tormek I am saving my money. John the second I saw the variable speen I went to the sears site. They dont sell 8 inch grinders in canada they do sell the 6 inch variable. HOW many amp is the 8 inch I am going to track down a few of these. To have speed controll will be 2 twice as good as mine that I have now. ALSO WELCOME TO THE FORUM DENNIS TOOK YOU LONG ENOUGH
 
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Thanks Bryan (WillMan) for explaining why you had deleted your earlier post. Please let us know how your re-gritting your wheel works....I hope that we hear back from you...
If this post doesn't make much sense look on page one at the 6th post.
 
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Hellgap , not sure on the amp & specs , but I will check it tomorrow night , it runs nice and slow on the lowest setting.

A bud has the un gritted wheel one side of his and a 8" leather wheel on the side , and that is a nice setup. I can only get a dozen knives on the gritted wheel , so I do use the Bader to raise it to a burr , then the rouge loaded paper wheel to kick of the burr and polish it a bit. Works well for me , and sharpening was killing me in the beginning.

How you like that tormek ?
 
John you mat need to use more wax on the gritted wheel im getting over 50 knives, That sounds like the problem . you should really get about a 100 knives on the gritted wheel maybee more but wax is the key
 
Safety issue

There have been a couple of posts here that have caused some concern by some about the dangers that might result. I have become concerned that this information was put up, then taken down without explination. I will try to go into what I understand of this issue.

The suggestion was to split a 2" belt and glue a strip onto the gritted wheel, rather than glueing new grit on. That was deleted because the author became concerned that someone might try that, the belt might come unglued and cause the user to loose control of a sharp knife. This might be true, although I doubt that it would be any worse than a belt breaking or getting cut while sharpening. I have had that happen to me.

I don't have the paper wheels so this is just my thoughts and, hopefully, common sense. I think that the way that http://stanfordoutdoors.homestead.com/ shows in their videos to regrit the wheel is the way to go. The wheels come with grit. You can buy more grit, and the grit is cheaper than a belt.

The glued on belt might never come off but why take a chance when there seems to be a better way to do it.

What ever, please work safe in what ever you are doing.

I hope this helps.
 
John,
I have the same issue with the number of knives when using only the paper wheels. It could be that I sharpen primarily hunting knives but I've tried more grease, less grease and different grease with no noticable difference. Currently, my preference is to use the Tormek (I have the older green model) to set the primary bevel, use the gritted wheel for the secondary bevel, the hone/polish with white and then green compound.
Bryan
 
The real issue I have re-gritting the wheels is getting the old grit off to bare paper. I've tried old files and industrial type sandpaper for floors, they work but it's a pain. If someone has an idea to remove the grit easier, re-gritting would be the way to go. You can buy it by the pound in various grits so it should last you a long time. So, if anyone has some ideas, I've got a few wheels we can expeiment with.
Bryan
 
I agree with the regrit issue, I get maybe 10 knives and the grit is mostly gone. Not much to remove so Its been pretty easy with 100 grit sandpaper backed with a piece of wood. I have tried most of the glues I own and cannot keep the grit on,, my best luck was wood glue, I coat with glue and sprinkle on the grit and then smooth with my finger a bit. I plan to go back to my 1 x 30 for the burr and then use the paper for polish unless I can get the grit issue resolved.

Just remembered I better put more grit on so the glue is dry for the next sharpening.
 
For some reason I've not had much luck with sandpaper. I wait until the wheels stop cutting well on knives and try to grind off the remaining carbide, which appears kind of smooth. But it still acts like carbide and makes it a real bear to get through it. I'm wondering if my bead blaster would take it off? I was even thinking of chucking it in the lathe and using a boring bar and cutting the paper at the very edge of wheel where the carbide is glued. Suggestion would be appreciated!
 
Success! The bead blaster took it off to bare paper in about 3 minutes! I was using black beauty, not sure what grit, at about 90psi. I'll go get a new bottle of wood glue and see how they re-grit.
Bryan
 
After beadblasting I re-gritted 4 wheels yesterday, let them dry overnight per instructions at stanfordoutdoors and it worked perfectly! The wheel raised a burr quickly and after honing I have a hair popping edge again.
Bryan
 
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