O K, I am a dumb a@#

Gary B and Stabber, Thanks alot but I am not setup to forge it down just yet, but hope to by spring. Thanks

Carey, that should also work with 11 second oil, don't you think?
Jerry
 
Hamon?

Good Morning,

Always keep in mind what the difference in grain structure represents, and that ultimately creates a cutting tool. Many temper lines are just that and create a brittle area or internal fractures.

Try different combos, and do a bend test. The first hamons I got were complete structural failures. Presently I use satinite mixed with charcoal, water in a tub. Triple temper, Cable and damascus is my main metal.

Check this out, also several pictures on the

site.http://www.threesistersforge.com/process.php?fmRecKey=20

Jim
 
Jerry,

I agree that the Parks would probably be a better choice but I started using the mineral oil on the recommendation of Ed Caffery and just never bothered to try anything else. I wasn't trying to say my way is better, just offering an alternative.

Carey
 
There is a some dissagreement sometimes on how long a quench should be . Lots of my friends use a little longer , quenching is kind of personal depending on what kind of results you get with your method ,and the kind of steel you use . Myself using mainly 10 series of steel . In water I would go with 4 with oil 6 . too long a quench will sometimes not produce a good hamon. with w-2 a 6 sec water quench will turn blade very brittle sometimes. I think mostly its how you were taught . with 1095 in water it reaches full hardness in 3 sec . longer quenches usually result in more cracked blades from my experiance. I sometimes cryo treat my blades to reach a final desired hardness. After a cryo I always temp one more time , about 30 min. I get pretty fair results with this method. I also leave clay on until after temper , it seems to produce more activity that way . If you temper a differentially treated blades too many times ,you will sacrifice the hamon , which is basically a surface feature , depending on steel.
 
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So what your basically saying is that McMaster-Carr 11 second oil is not fast enough?
What if I used brine? Would it be fast enough?
I don't want to use water because I have broken too many.
I just ordered McMaster- Carr 11 and I suppose I need to wait a while
before I get Park's 50
Is 1080 and 1084 bad about warping and bending W/water quince or brine like 1095?
I'm just full of questions on this subject--any answers will be greatly app.
Jerry
 
I.M not the ultimate authority on Hamons , but 11 sec seems a little long . when I was younger I used to watch a lot of older makers ( can you believe it) when they did water and oil quenches . I would always time them if I could . Most of them were between 4 -6 sec, I f you ever watched Walter Sorrels video on "hamons" his were all 4 sec . I never used the 11 sec quench , however some steels like W-1, w-2, 1095 , need a fast quench . I would try some parks ! There is a new quench available thats supposed to be as fast as parks 50 ? Parks is so damned expensive , this is about half the cost . Let me see if I can find mfg. name and number. some steels will produce beautiful hamons but, only after kicking and screaming the whole time . most of the time when I break one, it's usually my fault, getting it to hot , uneven application of clay , quenching it too long . uneven clay will produce the most warping bending , breakage problems in my opinion ? I also think the biggest problems with visual hamons is TOO much manganese. hoped this info helped some ....... Bubba There is a product called www.houghton.ca called type K quenchantshttp://www.houghton.ca/products.asp?Cat=1&SubCat=9
 
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I made 5 hunters and a large cgefs knife from 1080 I got from Kelly Cupples. I did an edge quench in Vet grade Mineral oil with a limiter plate, and although I didnt etch to bring it out the diffrent heat zone are visible at 600 grit finish, not poping out, but still visiable.

God Bless
Mike
 
Yah, Bubba
I just requested a price for that K-quench Maybe will try that.
Thanks a bunch, Jerry

Mike, What is a limiter plate?
 
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