Newbie- Belt grinder issues.

Yep, Rob, that's the one.

Pedro what is the particular part that you have a question about? I'll be glad to explain.

Doug
 
Yea what I don't get is why 4 in of glass if the machine takes 2 in belts. Wasn't Part of the point to get more slack on a grinder?
 
Doug: Yes I thought about it and I decided to buy the NWGS plans two days ago. It's just a matter of time now :). Do you know where I can get tips on building it just in case I get confused. I think my drill press should be useful here. I have no idea what tapping is though...

-Pedro
 
I immagine that Tracy will be able to give some pointers and hopefully someone who has actually built one will chime in with some suggestions.

Doug
 
I decided to buy the NWGS plans two days ago. It's just a matter of time now :). Do you know where I can get tips on building it just in case I get confused. I think my drill press should be useful here. I have no idea what tapping is though...

-Pedro

Good call!

The plans are very detailed, and should easily provide all the information you need.
Simply read them over a few times if there is something you don't immediately understand. If you still have trouble, simply state what step of the process is giving you trouble, and there are lots of folks here who can help.

BTW, tapping is the process of creating an internal thread. (Think of a nut which threads onto a bolt.)
First you drill a properly-sized hole, then you use a cutting tool called a tap to cut the threads.
A holder called a tap wrench allows you to rotate the tap.
The best method is to chuck the tap in your drill press- this will ensure that you start off straight. Don't turn the press on; just lower the tap and turn the chuck by hand to start.
Once you have it started straight, remove the tap from the drill chuck, place the tap in the wrench, and continue.
Use plenty of cutting fluid, and work a little at a time. Rotate the tap a little, then back it up to clear chips (clogging with chips can break the tap). Keep going until you're all the way through.

The tapping process seems daunting to someone who has never done it, but it's actually quite easy.
The main frustration people experience is broken taps. Just do your best to start it straight, use plenty of cutting fluid, and free the metal chips as you're advancing the hole.
 
Thank you very much, I hope I can do the plans justice.
I will look into tapping a little more. I hope HF can supply decent quality taps so they don't break.
-Pedro
 
I don't do much shopping at HF, but if they do sell taps, I'm sure they will be just fine for your application.
Keep in mind that simply because a tap is "high quality" does not mean it is harder to break; any of 'em will break under enough of the wrong pressure.

To understand this, remember that you are using a harder (more brittle) material to cut a softer material. So by its very nature, a tap will break instead of twisting or bending.

So it becomes an issue of using it properly; that's why I provided the tips above.

Sideways force can snap it, so tapping straight is important, and that's why many people use their drill chuck to start the threads.
Once you have a thread started, it becomes easy to maintain the alignment when you switch to using the wrench (for more leverage).

If the material becomes clogged with chips, you can break the tap. So if you feel sudden pressure, back it up to clear the chips.
The type of tap, type of material being threaded, tolerance of drilled hole, and depth of hole will all have a combined impact on the chipping problem- instead of worrying too much about it, simply back the tap out a little if you feel it becoming more difficult.

And don't skimp on cutting fluid.

Here is a very basic video of the process: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6DDhw191MLo

Good Luck,
Rob
 
(Question to someone who has seen or used the plans)
By the way, I bought a small tap set to practice a bit, and it's not as hard as it sounds, but taking it slow did help make it easier. This little 40 piece tap and die set I bought from harbor freight does the job pretty darn well but the biggest size it brings is 1/2". Is that big enough for the plans? I haven't received them yet and if this little kit will work I don't see why I'd need to buy more, as long as it's sufficient.
Thank you
- Peter
 
Yes, 1/2" is more than big enough.

The threaded holes are for the adjustment knobs.

http://www.usaknifemaker.com/4-bump-knob-polypro-w-comfort-grip-3-dia-p-1400.html
http://www.usaknifemaker.com/knob-knurled-threaded-3816-3-long-p-690.html
http://www.usaknifemaker.com/knob-cast-aluminum-4-bump-threaded-3816-3-long-p-691.html

It's simply a matter of deciding what you want to use as the adjustment knobs; they're available in many different sizes.
Many people even use bolts instead of knobs- although it's considerably easier on the budget, it's at cost of convenience (much easier to turn and tighten a knob instead of keeping a wrench next to machine).
But quite often people will use a bolt because it may be easier to obtain a fine-threaded bolt than a fine-threaded knob, and they feel safer with fine threads in thinner steel. I see their point, but I have not had any problems using the suggested size in the plans.

Whatever you use for adjustment, for whatever reason, you will match the threaded hole to that item.

When you get the plans, you should read through them many times and get a "feel" for the overall project. Soon you will realize that the project is actually very forgiving, and there are many areas where you can slightly deviate from the plans in order to use different materials .
 
By, the way, what is the max HP motor I could use? As for used motors so far the only ones at a decent price range are 5 HP i've so far found 3 of them. But i think that might be too much.
- Peter
 
By, the way, what is the max HP motor I could use? As for used motors so far the only ones at a decent price range are 5 HP i've so far found 3 of them. But i think that might be too much.
- Peter
Pedro,
I built one and love it. Very little tapping needed. I'd be happy to help. PM me if you'ld like to talk over the phone.

Ken
 
I would love to consult you about these plans. I have many questions I would like to be answered before I go and shop for materials and what not.
 
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