My handle chipped......... :(

Justin W.

Justin W.

Well-Known Member
Well last night I was getting very excited I almost had a hunting knife done and I was planning on posting a picture as soon as it was finished. I had my oak scales all cleaned up and to add some character I waved each scale in front of a blow torch for a few seconds. Overall I had a knife that I was VERY proud of then I went to put the last pin in the handle and a piece chipped off the top. Did I do something wrong or does that just happen sometimes? Thanks!Attach7699_20181123_064538.jpgAttach7700_20181123_064538.jpgAttach7701_20181123_064538.jpgAttach7698_20181123_064538.jpg
 
My guess is the pin was too close to the end of the scale. Did it chip off in one piece? The handle has so much beautiful charector , some CA glue and the chip should just blend in.
 
That would be a redo for me. The chip is too close to the front of the scale for a repair imo.

That front pin could be much smaller and should be moved back from the edge of the scale.
 
Retroguy said:
My guess is the pin may be too close to the end of the scale.
Click to expand...
Justin W. said:
Well that's kinda what I was thinking. Do you think I could take the scales off and start over
Click to expand...

I am so new at this so I am sure others will chime in. This is just me because I have made 3 knifes so far and have ruined about 8 making them. When something bothers me I have to fix it. If you redo, you might want to use smaller diameter pins also to give some more meat around it. I am not a knifemaker but know a little bit about wood. I really love the knife. It looks like a whiskey barrel type handle. I have a whiskey barrel stave that I want to make into scales. What type of wood is that. If you want a piece of the stave let me know. I'll send you a piece.
 
J. Doyle said:
That would be a redo for me. The chip is too close to the front of the scale for a repair imo.

That front pin could be much smaller and should be moved back from the edge of the scale.
Click to expand...

J. What would be those steps, im guessing first drill out the pins. What's the best way of getting the scale and epoxy off the steel?
 
Try this: The pins should be moved a little closer to the center and they need to be smaller. Mark and drill your tang for the pins. Go ahead and epoxy one scale on. When it dries use the holes in your tang as guides to drill the scale. Then epoxy your next scale on and once it is dry, use the holes on the opposite scale as a guide to drill the scale you just glued. The result will always be perfectly alligned pin holes and you should not have to force your pins and run the risk of tearout. It sounds like this takes a long time but if you use 5min epoxy it is barely slower.
 
Another trick I have used in the past when I did not have smaller pin stock is: Go to the grocery store and buy a pack of bamboo skewers. Get the fattest ones they have just make sure they are banboo. Use those as smaller pinstock. Bamboo is nature’s carbon fiber. Amazingly strong relative to its size and the cellulose like end-grain fiber looks cool on simple wood handles like oak or hickory.
 
It would depend on the fastener type and method used to install them.

If they were peened or were a Corby type, they'd need to be drilled out. If not, they can be punched out.

You can submerge the handle in a pot of boiling water to soften/loosen the epoxy and get the scales off.

Any residual epoxy/wood can be wire brushed or ground off.
 
Chris's methods for pinning would work but make sure to use quality epoxy as he does if you use that method (see his post below). I personally wouldn't ever use 5 min cheap epoxy on knife scales.
 
Last edited:
JB weld will work. But there are much better epoxies for knives. The West Systems species such as g_flex and acraglass are much better choices.
 
J. Doyle said:
Chris's methods for pinning would work but I personally wouldn't ever use 5 min cheap epoxy on knife scales.
Click to expand...
I should have been more clear. Not wal-mart 5 minute I get mine in big bottles from Pop’s knife supply. I have done some vicious testing with it and have never been disappointed. I do not like JB weld because the glue lines can be ugly at times. But it is strong. I know Doyle was not implying that I use chepo epoxy but I thought I should be clearer. I have never used or tested the wal-mart Devco epoxy so I cannot say for sure if it would work or not. I found the Pop’s epoxy and like it so that is what I use.
 
Chris Railey said:
I should have been more clear. Not wal-mart 5 minute I get mine in big bottles from Pop’s knife supply. I have done some vicious testing with it and have never been disappointed. I do not like JB weld because the glue lines can be ugly at times. But it is strong. I know Doyle was not implying that I use chepo epoxy but I thought I should be clearer. I have never used or tested the wal-mart Devco epoxy so I cannot say for sure if it would work or not. I found the Pop’s epoxy and like it so that is what I use.
Click to expand...

Thanks Chris. I edited my above post for clarity as I could have worded it more clearly also.
 
Have a good swear Justin and do not go so close to the edge in future.

I love that fine example of a knife, I chipped a couple in my early days and stripped scale off one and replaced it very gingerly
If the knife is for yourself just use it Justin and it will incurr a knock or two in the future I am sure.

If the knife is to be sold you must send it away perfect.

Do not be to disheartened mate, you wanna see some of my mistakes. lol

Good luck

Robert.
 
I will advise against Smooth-on epoxy though. Even though it is an extremly strong epoxy, I used it when I made laminated longbows, it is a heat cured epoxy. It may not matter in Montanna ir Alaska but if you leave heat cured epoxy in a car in the Georgia summer bad things will happen...Believe me I know.
 
Chris Railey said:
I will advise against Smooth-on epoxy though. Even though it is an extremly strong epoxy, I used it when I made laminated longbows, it is a heat cured epoxy. It may not matter in Montanna ir Alaska but if you leave heat cured epoxy in a car in the Georgia summer bad things will happen...Believe me I know.
Click to expand...
What is smooth on epoxy?
 
Speaking of epoxy and sorry about hijacking the thread. Two questions. 1. Do most folks put the epoxy on both sides and B. How do you gauge how thin to put in on?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top