Most common mistakes that beginners make

James Terrio said:
Cheer up, next time you'll have the carbide bit on hand ;)

If it's an oil-hardening steel, you can "spot anneal" the tang with a torch, even a small handyman propane torch will do. That will usually make it soft enough to drill. Take care not to let the heat run up into the blade and ruin its temper. This doesn't work well with air-hardening/stainless steels.
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Yes it was me that had this problem. we tried to spot anneal it and it only melted the metal and we still could not drill through it. It than proceeded to break the carbide bit. It sucks! I now drill a size larger than the pin.
 
.44mag story

BossDog said:
Not respecting the drill press. I've lost count how many times I helicoptered a piece of steel before I finally started using a stop pin or vise. The buffer can really mess you up by flinging steel through you but the drill press can take fingers off or at least give you stitches just as fast.
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OH man I am sorry, I see pictures in my head................and that is such a stupid simple reminder, I never even thought of "When Knives Go Flinging" Could be a book!!!! That reminder, is something that should be priceless to share for newbies like me: I guess I can share this story not to top you Boss, but I remember a call I was on as a medic: "it was to a gun shot wound to the leg" Long Story short...The man who shot himself in the right femur with a .44 mag was so embarrassed while in total pain and his leg in pieces, he identified himself as the Inventor of the .44 Magnum Load for Smith and Wesson and the Dirty Harry Version???....He had the trophies and pictures on his walls with Clint and others to back his story.. and he stated he is known for his firearm safety classes around the world. I never followed up to see if they saved his leg. But it was gone, gone gone!!! He was starting to clean his gun he stated. That was a call I never forgot! And thanks for the reminder!!! That dude was more embarrassed than in pain, I think?????:confused2:
 
Gahagan said:
Yes it was me that had this problem. we tried to spot anneal it and it only melted the metal and we still could not drill through it. It than proceeded to break the carbide bit. It sucks! I now drill a size larger than the pin.
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I had the same exact issue happen to me about a year ago. I've since had it happen a few more times but find that the cobalt bits I buy at the local hardware store work much better than the carbide bits. I have pretty much quit using carbide bits and solely use the cobalt one I'm buying loaclly. I'm not sure how it works, but the cobalt bits are cutting multiple times better and lasting forever.

My biggest obstacle starting out and still today has been equal grinding. One day I'll be dead on grinding left handed and be horrible right handed. THe next day it's the opposite. It sometimes seems as though it takes forever for me to get things even.
 
I've almost given up on grinding "both handed". I get better results grinding both sides from the right, obverse side edge-up and reverse side edge-down. I stand almost directly to the right side of my grinder, not in front of it.

I know it sounds crazy but it seems to work for me. Maybe because I'm right-hand dominant, and left-eye dominant... you should see me try to aim a handgun or bow :52:

Anyway, whatever works for you, we're all different.
 
I'm right there with ya James. I always get odd looks from guys when deployed, I have my rifle slung across my chest from the left and my pistol on my right. I fire rifle left and pistol right handed. It's convenient when it comes to transitioning firearms, but sucks when I'm grinding.
 
Trying to get too much out of a belt or paper is a good example. I'm such a tightwad I still have to remind myself I'm wasting my time. Best advice I ever heard on that is use them like they are free.
 
My number one mistake was quitting to early on a knife. For example, if you're using files, it's alot easier to stop the bevel short than it is to take it all the way to the spine, or easier to leave the handle a little too square instead of really rounding it off "right". I've got several early knives that would have been much better with another 15 minutes work in several places.
 
I think for me I wasted too many years trying to re-invent the knife ! Taking tried and trued designs and putting your flair to them will come naturally. Give a hundred knife makers the same pattern to build and you will get one hundred different knives! Another one for me was making thick clunky handles, I cringe when I see some of my early knives. Keep it simple and forget the bling bling until you master the basics! Nothing worse than a poorly crafted knife with a big diamond glued on the handle.
Take care,
Sampson Knifeworks
 
Sampson knifeworks said:
I think for me I wasted too many years trying to re-invent the knife ! Taking tried and trued designs and putting your flair to them will come naturally. Give a hundred knife makers the same pattern to build and you will get one hundred different knives! Another one for me was making thick clunky handles, I cringe when I see some of my early knives. Keep it simple and forget the bling bling until you master the basics! Nothing worse than a poorly crafted knife with a big diamond glued on the handle.
Take care,
Sampson Knifeworks
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Nice advise for me....the handle is becoming a hard concept to find balance. I like large handles......it's just knowing when to use them and when not too....Thanks do you have a criteria?
 
many beginners don't respect their buffer. this simple looking tool will ruin your day in an instant.
 
Kris Martinelli said:
Nice advise for me....the handle is becoming a hard concept to find balance. I like large handles......it's just knowing when to use them and when not too....Thanks do you have a criteria?
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Hi Kris,
I thought I have some pretty big meat hooks, but apparently there are a lot of guys that have bigger mitts than me! My criteria is trying to make the handle feel good when your holding it with the blade edge up or down and on shorter handles keeping the butt of the knife rounded or non-restricted, that way when the handle does not extend past your hand it's not going to create hot spots. Balance is a tricky thing too, depending on handle weight, bolsters, blade length, Etc. Etc...... When you get everything right it's a sweet feeling! All I can say is keep notes and lots of trial and error. Bye the way, this is a great thread! Wish I could have read this thirty years ago.
Sincerely,
Clint Sampson
Sampson Knifeworks
 
Grinding blades to thin before heat treat seems to be universal for beginners. Second is not fully understanding the processes needed to make a knife and in what order they are performed as someone mentioned above.
Fred
 
rushing to fine grit sandpaper too soon then backtracking when those last few scratches won't go away.

Another mistake is not keeping different grits seperated, getting a few wild grits on your fine sandpaper can make big scratches.

ernie
 
One of the biggest mistakes I see new makers make (and I've been guilty of it my self) is going to the next step in your well thought out plan for making a knife before you finish the step you are on. Most times it is very hard and some times impossible to go back.
 
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