JB Weld for finger guards in place of solder

L

levernut

Well-Known Member
I have read Ed Mcaffery's comments on using JB weld in place of solder for finger guard. I would like to try this method but if the guard is loose enough to hold epoxy then it will show the gray JB weld at the joint, right? Is there clear JB weld? I like to make knives from CPM 3V and other non stainless steels so rust bleeding from this area is a concern. What am I missing?
Brad
 
No, there is no clear JB Weld that I know of. Keep your joints tight and the gray line is hardly noticable. I've also use soldier and it also leaves a line, albeit silverish. I really don't see where there should be any problems with rust using JB Weld. It's easy to clean it up if you get it where you don't want it. Just use some WD-40 on a paper towell or cotton tip applicator before it hardens. After it hardens you can make s chissel out of some brass rod to scrape it away.

Doug
 
Maybe I'm wrong here, but it seems you have the idea that in order to use JB weld, there has to be a "gap".... no. Whatever is used, whether it be solder, epoxy, JB weld, etc. it is nothing more than a moisture seal. If something must be used to "attach" a guard, then the guard fit is not tight enough.

All too often folks think inside the box.....when thinking "outside the box" is called for...... for example, on hidden tang blades/guards, I make the hole in the guard material tapered, with the smaller portion towards what will be the front of the guard. I file/fit the guard to within about 1/2" of the blade shoulders, then press fit it from there. IF the guard material is softer than the tang/blade (as is generally the case), the guard material will deform to exactly match every little contour. Then I "tap" the guard back off, finish the face, and IF using JB weld, put in in from the back side, once the guard is in it's final position......absolutely none of the JB weld shows. In many cases I use nothing on the guard joint...but let it fill with acraglass when "gluing" on the handle material. For the most part, the guard joints are so tight that even the acraglass does not seep through the joint.....but does fill to the front of the guard/blade joint.

The point being that it's all about taking the time/effort to ensure that guard fit is as perfect as you can make it.....at least on the front, where the blade/guard joint is visible.

OK, not that we've covered the "guard fit" thing, I agree with Doug on ways to clean up things. IF you think your going to have a "seam" of visible JB weld, just make sure it's even and equal ALL the way around the front of the blade/guard joint.
 
Gentlemen,
Thanks for your replies. Yes, I was assuming that a gap was needed for the JB, which goes against my normal methods. I normally mill the guard slot so it just slips on or has to be lightly tapped onto the ricasso. I also make sure both sides of the ricasso area are parallel, then I pin, peen and solder. I welcome the JB method and will try it on my next knife. Ron Brown has a tutorial on his website and he describes how to peen the guard into the guard slot to minimize the joint gap. I think I will try this also.

One area is still not clear, however. On my non-stainless steel knives, I often see a rust line where the guard meets the spine in spite of a tight fit. With the "JB method" there is no gap and therefore no JB weld to seal. Can the rusting be prevented or is it just part of the tradeoff for non-stainless steel?
Brad
 
I've used atomized stainless steel from Brownell's mixed in JB Weld. Clean it up as you normally would and after it's completely set up you can polish it and it will turn silver looking.
 
I make my own guards using bar stock, a drill press, an end mill, and a X-Y vice. I mill out an indention on the back of the guard about 3/32 all the way around where the tang exits the back of the guard. I fill this will JB weld. I fill this with JB weld. The JB will will seep down the tang filling all the space. Sometimes I have a little dribble down the blade but it is easy to clean up the first day...second day is not so easy. So far I have not had any issues with a rust line.
 
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