It needs help

Greg Rice

Greg Rice

Well-Known Member
Ok - so below is one of the knives I began long before I got on this forum. It has benefitted as I havegone back and done some rework.

This is being made out of a file, my brotherlaw’s great-grandfather’s file. It will go onto a shelf in his dental office in Tulsa Town. Never to be anything but seen.

So - I have a line or two to tweak in the filing phase to get tip straight - but now I gotta do a guard... Tips? And if I should just throw it away - I will. But I feel like I need to do more work between handle and blade to prep for a guard - and then make a guard... Just not sure what...

Beat it up!
 

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To my eye the ricasso is a little long. I would bring the plunges back toward the tang a little and even them up. Use a file guide to make sure your shoulders are straight and even with each other before you fit the guard. When you slot your guard make sure the slot is a little more narrow (in thickness) than your tang. Taper your tang in thickness and width except for the last 1/2 inch or so. That way you have to drive the guard on that last 1/2 inch or so using a piece of pipe and a hammer. it will make a tight fit with no gaps if you do it right. I like the wasp shape by the way.
 
Chris Railey said:
To my eye the ricasso is a little long. I would bring the plunges back toward the tang a little and even them up. Use a file guide to make sure your shoulders are straight and even with each other before you fit the guard. When you slot your guard make sure the slot is a little more narrow (in thickness) than your tang. Taper your tang in thickness and width except for the last 1/2 inch or so. That way you have to drive the guard on that last 1/2 inch or so using a piece of pipe and a hammer. it will make a tight fit with no gaps if you do it right. I like the wasp shape by the way.
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Thank you. I too felt it was too long. About 1/2 that is what I am thinking?

That makes sense to taper all but the last bit. Are the guards pinned on? I wont pin this one as it wont matter - but in general are they pinned? Or does the ‘press fit’ and handle hold ‘em on.

Also, doing it like this - does the handle get pins? Or does epoxy and some sort of pommel hold it all together?
 
You could solder the guard on or use something like J B Weld. That, with the attachment of the handle, should keep the guard in place.

Doug
 
Greg Rice said:
Also, doing it like this - does the handle get pins? Or does epoxy and some sort of pommel hold it all together?
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You can do any of those things. If you scallop the tang up and down the length and fill the handle completely with epoxy or JB Weld it will be there forever. A belt and suspenders approach is to thread the tang and use a pommel with an inset nut or something similar. I use a female Corby bolt. I leave it long and then grind the screwdriver slot part off. It's really more a decision of what you want the handle to look like when it's complete. Some handles lend themselves to pommels, some to pins. If I use a piece of antler with the crown as the butt then I just scallop the tang and fill the entire handle void with epoxy.
 
I normally do mine as a framed handle either press fit to the guard or slightly recessed into the back of the guard. Once you finish the handle construction there is no where for the guard to go. Any of the above works too I just prefer framed handles.
 
John Wilson said:
You can do any of those things. If you scallop the tang up and down the length and fill the handle completely with epoxy or JB Weld it will be there forever. A belt and suspenders approach is to thread the tang and use a pommel with an inset nut or something similar. I use a female Corby bolt. I leave it long and then grind the screwdriver slot part off. It's really more a decision of what you want the handle to look like when it's complete. Some handles lend themselves to pommels, some to pins. If I use a piece of antler with the crown as the butt then I just scallop the tang and fill the entire handle void with epoxy.
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Thank you. Scallop the tang, makes sense. Didnt know that. Thanks John.
 
Chris Railey said:
I normally do mine as a framed handle either press fit to the guard or slightly recessed into the back of the guard. Once you finish the handle construction there is no where for the guard to go. Any of the above works too I just prefer framed handles.
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What is a framed handle?
 
opaul said:
Rather than regrinding the ricasso back you could just grind it down from the handle end to the desired length. Your grinds look great.
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Thanks Opaul! You made my night. I still have a long long ways to go. They are like a 20 foot girlfriend - they look dang good at 20 feet away. Just dont zoom in - ok?
 
Ok - so made some changes - even with a file guide The shoulders look like total noob crap. Circled in blue...
 

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Chris Railey said:
Here is a link to a great how to by Bruce Bump on framed handles. This is pretty much how I do mine. Just not as perfect as Bruce’s.

Double guard and framed handle, rear bolsters too

LOVIN IT !!!! -Josh
knifedogs.com
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Thanks Chris - I am going to spend some time there - thank you

I see the post is from 2013 - Bruce Bump - I see Forum Owner Admin - but I have not seen him post anywhere. Is he still around the KD forum?
 
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