Is 0.262" too thick?

Thanks for all the help Rudy and Justin... That's a good link! and I found this color chart (I'm sure you all have your favorite color charts already though)....

http://www.blksmth.com/heat_colors.htm

Looks like I will be going from dull red, to pure red, to one shade into orange before letting it begin cooling... I'll try and take some pics if I remember....
 
I thought I had posted this from my phone already, but forget it... the pieces I have are 0.262 thick and 1.75x15" and that's just TOO much steel to heat in a grill. I am really frustrated right now because I understand how the reactions work, I just don't have anything I need to MAKE them happen. I had them over and under and surrounded by white hot coals for 2 hours and not even the middle of the pieces reached anything close to being dull red, so I know there would be NO way for me to get the entire bars annealed with what I have available.

I am now back to shopping for steel and will just order some from Admiral or something... :(

On that note... if anyone has anything they want to trade for 4 pieces of 5160... I'm willing to let this stuff go ;) My thought was that this would be great for forging because you could walk that thickness out into a much larger knife than just doing stock removal.
 
I urge you to call Aldo for steel, you won't be sorry unless he talks your ear off...The 6$ grinding charge is well worth it, if the stock is not flat ground already. The labor it saves makes knifemaking more pleasant as a whole, I find.
 
I can talk ears off with the best of them... just ask my wife... :) I'll look him up. Thanks for the direction.
 
Brad,
What do you want to trade?
But why don’t you just cut them in half and make 8 nice hidden tang knives?
Heck it was free.
Make a knife for the fellow who gave you the steel and I would bet he would have more for ya:thumbup1:
 
I got a PM from someone asking about trading for walnut scales, but I'm not overly excited about walnut in general... I just don't know...
I would cut them in half, but they are SO hard that 24grit on a flap disk just polished it, despite throwing major showers of sparks. Am I just being impatient? I put the end of one of these on the coarse wheel of my bench grinder and it started taking away materials decently well.

Perhaps I will keep one for myself to test and try on and the other 3 can go...
 
A cutting wheel on a grinder should do the trick or a chop saw ? A flap disk wouldn't do much for removing lots of steel anyway, the flaps have too much give to them.

Rudy
 
I still have 3 unmolested bars, but did this today with a cut off wheel (just to get a very rough shape) to prove that I could do it. Its 10.5" OAL and 6" blade. I am going to take the handle back to about where the sharpie line is...

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I did some more shaping and grinding tonite for a couple of hours... Here's what I have gotten to, and the "edge" is still about 3/16th thick, so I have quite a way to go... I will most likely end up in your shop some time next week for some help with the final finishing on the blade... Then I have 3 to build for Christmas...

2010-10-28%2019.36.08.jpg


2010-10-28%2019.35.55.jpg
 
I am still slowly working on thinning/grinding that Wharncliffe, but cut this rough blank out Sunday morning. the first pic show the lines I want to work to, making a large bowie/fighter with hidden tang and probably an S-curved guard. The second pic shows the overall size.

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