I'm a Fighter...

ricky_arthur

Well-Known Member
Well, I hope this one says "I'm a Fighter"! I looked at about 50 "fighters" and took what I liked and started one.

here it is so far. Rough fitting of handle. Rough grind of Blade done. Will probably heat treat tomorrow.

60E8A927-289A-4CC4-8CD5-D65862AE1B0B-2883-0000026F5B44361A_zpsdd767981.jpg


How am I doing so far? Does it say "Fighter"?
 
Why YES! It does say fighter!
But I am another maker and really don't care for or think that the Sub-Hilt design is very practical for a Fighter or a working field knife. But you may find many that disagree with me? And sell a bunch of them to folks that want them to collect and look at. I would be interested to hear from any soldiers that have found the sub-hilt pattern preferred in a combat knife?

It does have a high cool factor & and like the blade shape and wood.

Laurence

www.rhinoknives.com
 
Nice fighter. I also do not see the need of a sub hilt guard on a knife. It kinda gets in the way with a reverse gripping of the knife. A spacer band would keep the cool factor and make a better handling knife. Just another makers opinion.

Really like the bade profile, nicely executed.
 
Looks good I'm in the other camp I like the look of a well done subhilt. I was surprised at how secure your grip is when you chop with a subhilt. Be sure to post finished pictures when your done
 
Looking very good Ricky.

I also like the look of a sub-hilt, but I have no experience handling one. What kind of wood is that?
 
Nice fighter. I also do not see the need of a sub hilt guard on a knife. It kinda gets in the way with a reverse gripping of the knife. A spacer band would keep the cool factor and make a better handling knife. Just another makers opinion.

Really like the bade profile, nicely executed.

Looking very good Ricky.

I also like the look of a sub-hilt, but I have no experience handling one. What kind of wood is that?


Thanks, I appreciate the input. Especially the opinion on the sub hilt. There are 2 main reasons I tried a sub hilt on this knife.

First; With each knife I make, I try to include some facet of knife making that I have not done before. (which is getting harder the more knives I make :) ) For example yesturday I did my first Hollow grind blade. It turned out pretty good. I have never done a sub hilt and since I liked the looks of the ones I saw on various knives, I decided to give it a try. I nearly tried a frame handle but chickened out for this one.

Second, (and to answer your question Steven) I had several real nice pieces of grey Oak burl that I wanted to put on a knife but none of them were big enough to work on a larger knife. So, the sub hilt allowed me to use 2 different pieces of the same oak. Now that the subhilt is on and I have an idea of how to do one, I could always just grind it down to be just a spacer. I'll think about it. Again thanks for the input.
 
Last edited:
Very nice! In my opinion, I don't like the sub hilt, that is just me though, they just don't feel right in my hand. Design wise it is awesome. Good work! I want to see it done.
 
Pretty awesome Ricky ! I'm still amazed at how new you are to knife making for how well executed your work is (if that makes sense, if not, it's meant to be a compliment). I don't have a need for a fighting knife but I can certainly appreciate the designs. It looks good so far.
 
Thanks Bowman. :)

Some progress, Should have the handle on later tonight. But here it is so far, Some times with a Hamon, you don't get what you are going for. But that doesn't mean I don't like it :)

ABB88CCA-B20A-47D3-868E-67CF94BA1823-2883-0000031598B84968_zpsb5040dcb.jpg


CC6A11E1-EB97-4869-AD7C-43115B0DD9B3-2883-000003159DD65360_zps93c072c0.jpg
 
I should add, it is 5/32 1084, 14 inches long with a blade just under 9 inches.


I should point out the mistake I caught too late, maybe someone can learn from it too. I had assembled the handle parts dozens of times while fitting everything, the fit from blade to guard was very good. I took it down one last time and hand sanded all the brass pieces to make finishing easier after assembling the handle. Then I taped the blade to protect it and epoxied the handle. The tape covered the small gap that my sanding had opened on transition from blade to guard. It's not much, you can see it in the picture. :( Had I seen it before epoxy, I probably would have remade the guard. I didn't notice it until I took the tape off. :(
 
Last edited:
Ah! Live and learn good sir. there have been a couple of times that I have found gaps because I was not looking close enough.

I am glad you said it was 1084. If you want a different type of hamon you can try 1075, 1095, w1, and w2. Those will give different types of hamons. 1084 works but it wont give you a really active hamon.

Good job though!!! I like it.
 
Back
Top