how should i finish this handle????

A

AJH_Knives

Well-Known Member
have a look at this, looking for ideas on finishing this handle. think shape. the scales are 3/8" thick and the blade is 1/8"... its big for my hands.

IMG_0809[1].jpgIMG_0810[1].jpg
 
Try grinding a bit more radius to the face of the scales to break the edges over more. It will possible sit better in your hand then.

Doug
 
From a cross section view,
Radius the handle into more of a oval from where your index finger back, with a bit larger of a radius on top.

It will then fit a look more comfortably in your hand and you won't run the risk of hot spots from those corners.

That is my suggestion.

Good luck and have fun.

Laurence

www.rhinoknives.com
 
So how would i do a palm swell. I am trying to figure out the proportions. At the same time The scales are glued on the handles and I don't want to mess them up...
 
I've finished scales after gluing on a number of knives. I recently did a sortof palm swell by simply tapering the scale flats towards the blade and the butt using the flat disc sander on my grinder. You could probably take it down to 1/8" thick near the blade, and maybe 1/4" at the butt unless you want a little weight in the butt for balance., and leave it 3/8" where you want the swell. Then taper from the spine into the fasteners so it looks like a blocky form, and then round down the edges as described before. A half round file helps shape swells, and soften finger grip areas, as does sand paper on a dowel or other cylindrical object of appropriate diameter.

Look at your hands too; on mine the where the pad and my pinky meet is smaller diameter than where the index and the pad meet, so a little thicker near the blade, and a little less in the butt works good for me on a GP knife.

And if you don't like it bad enough, its okay to join the ranks of those of us who've had to cut off scales and start over :)
 
Are those brass looking rivets now holding scales to tang as well as the glue holding?

Ken H>
 
KenH--- they are stainless pins and tube. I epoxied the scales on as well

Rob Nelson, I think I might give that a try. I will probably draw it on the scales and see how i like the lines then sand away..

thanks guys
Aaron
 
Aaron - Once I look closer I can see the stainless rivets, my first glance with my monitor they had a yellow look, so I thought "brass". Now, reading your question/statement again I realize you were saying you didn't wish to mess them up and have to remove them with the epoxy holding in place. Dummy me, my "too quick" read was thinking your concern was the scales might come loose with the grinding, hence, my dumb statement of rivets and epoxy holding scales.

Back to reading 101 for me<:(

Ken H>
 
I always contour my handles after they are glued on. I use the 10" contact wheel on my grinder. I usually use the upper pin as my initial point of contact then roll the knife to both sides. Then if it hasn't already contoured the top of the handle I start working the contour up til the top of the handle has a nice radius. Then I go to the lower part of the handle and do basically the same thing. Make contact then roll side to side. After that I extend the contours into each other . Then I go to the dremel to radius the edges after that it is sand paper time. I usually start at 120 and end at 320 then I buff.
 
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