How do you ship your custom Knives

Gahagan

Well-Known Member
I just received a call from a customer that a knife I sent was being held at the post office because it pierced 6" through the box. I shipped the case in a 18" padded case ( from POPS knife Supply) that was tight around the knife so it did not have room to slide around. It was then put in the box with bubble wrap and paper. The post office said that knives had to be claimed as hazardous materials and that the wrapping was insufficient. I have not had this problem before and have received many knives shipped this way. I just want some feed back as to how others ship their knives. I just don't understand it.
 
The post office literally throws those packages around. I always ship the knife in the sheath.

If a sheath is not included, I will fold heavy cardboard around the blade and tape it. I leave the cardboard extending a couple of inches past the tip.

Either way, I wrap everything in bubble wrap and pack the box with packing so it can't move around. So far, I have never had a problem.
 
Well I will have to try and figure out something better. I just didn't want it in the sheath and risk it showing up rusted or stained.
 
I don't know where USPS worker got the "hazardous materials" comment from. That's a new one on me. I do know that by regulation, any knife with greater than a 5" blade is supposed to be shipped "Registered Mail" so that it is tracked and signed for on each stop in the shipping process. It took my combat knife seven weeks to get home from Iraq, but it only took 11 days for a 65lb trunk shipped Priority Mail. Registered Mail ismprobably the slowest but most secure method.
 
It is considered hazardous only if it is not packaged so that the point or edge will not penetrate the package. There is nothing in the postal manual about blade length.

Here is the entire section from the postal manual regarding knives:

12.6 Knives and Sharp Instruments
12.6.1 Mailability
Knives (including sharp-pointed instruments such as stilettos that lack cutting
edges) with a blade that opens automatically by hand pressure applied to a button
or other device in the handle, or by operations of inertia, gravity, or both, or with a
detachable blade propelled by a spring-operated mechanism, are mailable only
when sent to:
a. The respective government’s or organization’s designated supply or
procurement officers and employees ordering, procuring, or buying such knives
for use with the activities of the federal government; the National Guard, the Air
National Guard, or the militia of a state, territory, or the District of Columbia; or
the municipal government of the District of Columbia or of the government of
any state or territory, or of any county, city, or other political subdivision of a
state or territory.
b. Manufacturers of such knives, or bona fide dealers of such knives, in
connection with a shipment made under an order from any person designated
in 12.6.1a.

12.6.2 Addressee Identification
Before delivering a shipment (or parcel) that contains an article or articles described
in 12.6.1, a USPS employee may require that the recipient identify himself or herself
as in one of the categories in 12.6.1a.

12.6.3 Wrapping
Sharp-pointed or sharp-edged instruments such as knives, tools, ice picks, and
razor blades, that are otherwise mailable, must be wrapped to protect their points
and edges from cutting through the outer carton in which they are mailed.


12.7 Prohibited Parcel Marking
For any parcel containing a firearm or a ballistic or switchblade knife, any marking
that indicates the contents is not permitted on the outside wrapper or container.
 
Good info Mike! I was going off the info provided to us in theatre. I guess the rules are a bit different there.
 
Murph, that quote is from the domestic manual. It might be different for International or military. The manual are online at www.usps.com but you have to do a little digging to find them. It's a good reference because from my experience a lot of the postal clerks don't know the regs and tend to make them up on the spot.
 
I just didn't want it in the sheath and risk it showing up rusted or stained.

When I ship a knife in a leather sheath, I clean the blade and give it a light coat of cutting oil, then wrap it up good in saran wrap so the oil doesn't get on the leather*. Include written instructions for the customer so they don't cut their sandwich and get machine oil all over their food. (or just use mineral oil, it's food-safe)

I like to include some Knifedogs/USAknifemaker business cards (Tracy will send you a pack free to hand out) and AKTI pamphlets (I got a stack at the Guild show, I'm sure they'll send you extras as well).

* I do the same thing when wet-forming sheaths and for long term storage.
 
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The thick cardboard tubes and end plugs used for shipping steel I get work great. I cut them to length on the band saw, pack in the knife and screw the plugs on the ends. For the coup de grace I duct tape the bejesus out of the ends. It's very secure and 'green'.

Rudy
 
I don't ship knives, but have received a few. Many good suggestions above.
What I prefer is a secure box, USPS boxes need extra tape IMHO, with NO movement, bubble wrap or foam.
Use a strong box not much larger than needed, uline.com had great ones.
Packing paper can compress over time and peanuts are a mess when unpacking.
Blade oiled, in a cardboard sheath securely taped with blue painters tape, the no mar removable kind.
Got a knife once with a wine cork stuck on the blade tip. Kinda neat, but I'd prefer the cardboard sheath extending past the tip as mentioned above.
Shake it real good, nothing should move or make noise, don't spare the tape on the edges.
These are just some of the things that appeal to me. Dozier
 
I never thought of wrapping it in saran wrap and then putting it in the sheath. I may try that next time.
 
For shipping I place knives in the sheath.....then wrap it tightly in "bubble" wrap....then I force it into a length of 4" thin wall PVC pipe....leaving about 3-4" extra at each end. These end "cavities" get filled with wadded newspaper or bubble wrap, then the ends get duct taped. In some cases I have been known to cut wooden "plugs" for each end of the PVC pipe, insert them and use screws from the outside of the pipe to secure the wooden plugs. I only do this on very high end pieces anymore....clients didn't like how hard they had to work to open the "package" with the wooden plugs! :)

Often times I will ship EBKs in the kydex sheath, in a small Priority flat rate box....but always ensure they are well packaged with bubble wrap to ensure no mobility inside the box.
 
Murph, that quote is from the domestic manual. It might be different for International or military. The manual are online at www.usps.com but you have to do a little digging to find them. It's a good reference because from my experience a lot of the postal clerks don't know the regs and tend to make them up on the spot.

That seems to be the case everywhere
 
For shipping I place knives in the sheath.....then wrap it tightly in "bubble" wrap....then I force it into a length of 4" thin wall PVC pipe....leaving about 3-4" extra at each end. These end "cavities" get filled with wadded newspaper or bubble wrap, then the ends get duct taped. In some cases I have been known to cut wooden "plugs" for each end of the PVC pipe, insert them and use screws from the outside of the pipe to secure the wooden plugs. I only do this on very high end pieces anymore....clients didn't like how hard they had to work to open the "package" with the wooden plugs! :)


Often times I will ship EBKs in the kydex sheath, in a small Priority flat rate box....but always ensure they are well packaged with bubble wrap to ensure no mobility inside the box.

I sometimes do the same thing using the heavy cardboard tubes that carpet rolls come on, instead of pvc pipe. They can be picked up for free at flooring/home improvement stores and are usually over 1/4" thick. If you take the time to cut out about a dozen end plugs at a time it is a reasonably cost/time-effective package and will survive anything short of being run over or blown up.
 
For those making wooden plugs, how are you making them?

Slices off of dowelling? (pretty big round, not available???)
or
band-sawing out from flat planks
 
For those making wooden plugs, how are you making them?

Slices off of dowelling? (pretty big round, not available???)
or
band-sawing out from flat planks

5/8" or 3/4" plywood scraps, use a compass or appropriate size circle pattern to mark the circle, buzz it out on the bandsaw, clean up on the grinder as needed.
 
For those making wooden plugs, how are you making them?

Slices off of dowelling? (pretty big round, not available???)
or
band-sawing out from flat planks

I use a hole saw in one of the drill presses on 2 x 4 or 2 x 6 scrap from work. I'll cut all I can so they're always ready, and clean them up on the belt grinder like Justin if the fit is too tight.
 
I use a hole saw in one of the drill presses on 2 x 4 or 2 x 6 scrap from work. I'll cut all I can so they're always ready, and clean them up on the belt grinder like Justin if the fit is too tight.
That's how I've shipped my blades to the heat treaters. Hole saw is the easiest way to cut plugs, and duct tape does the rest. I place the tube inside a small box as well - it cuts down on the handling costs (typically $6 for shipping vs. $19 if I ship the tube on its own - figure that one out...).
 
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