Handle material
- Thread starter Aikenn
- Start date
Hi Aikenn,
The two sets of stabilized moose I've put on to knives have done that on me during the build, but the bow was only slight and I was able to pull them back together with clamps, epoxy, and rivets. But this was on fixed blades so not sure how thin you need to get for a folder. I also epoxied a thick liner (vulcanized paper) to help hold them straight while I continued the build.
Had I continued to have trouble I would try this advice in "antler straightening" post #2. From what I've read online since I got into knives, it looks like common practice to use heat and I would hunt down more info online on how to do this. I might try to find it in relation to gunsmithing to or think of other applications where people would need to do this.
Final thought though, is that I have non stabilized moose and karboo that will not do this because they are already dense. These more dense peices that haven't warped were already dry before I cut them and have come near the crown. The crown peices that had either no visible vein (moose) or only a small vein (karboo) of pith. The ones I have that like to bend have pith showing on the inside.
Hope the little experience helps and you find what you need. Good luck on the build.
The two sets of stabilized moose I've put on to knives have done that on me during the build, but the bow was only slight and I was able to pull them back together with clamps, epoxy, and rivets. But this was on fixed blades so not sure how thin you need to get for a folder. I also epoxied a thick liner (vulcanized paper) to help hold them straight while I continued the build.
Had I continued to have trouble I would try this advice in "antler straightening" post #2. From what I've read online since I got into knives, it looks like common practice to use heat and I would hunt down more info online on how to do this. I might try to find it in relation to gunsmithing to or think of other applications where people would need to do this.
Final thought though, is that I have non stabilized moose and karboo that will not do this because they are already dense. These more dense peices that haven't warped were already dry before I cut them and have come near the crown. The crown peices that had either no visible vein (moose) or only a small vein (karboo) of pith. The ones I have that like to bend have pith showing on the inside.
Hope the little experience helps and you find what you need. Good luck on the build.
garyschuler58@charter.net
New Member
You might try heating in hot water and then clamping to a metal straightedge while cooling. I put horn tip overlays on my bow tips and this is how i get them to follow the curve on the recurve tips. Then i just glue them on and go to sanding. No gaps or glue lines.
Aikenn
Well-Known Member
Current. During process of thinning when material is hot i clamp btw steel and c clamps.
The best i get is a very slight bow bit i am concerned that left or after on knife that the material will bow again.
I will add an extra holddown screw on liner lock.
Aikenn
Well-Known Member
Tried it
I don't entirely trust mine either - it was also very slight. It may open up, but it has a lot going for it, too being stabilized with a tight rivet and g-flex. I wish I had set up for corbys though. The second fastener is probably the way to go.