Hand Sharpening Systems ~ Edge Pro vs Wicked Edge

D

Diamond G Knives

Well-Known Member
I've been looking at a higher end sharpener to allow me to put the edges expected on high end Kitchen cutlery.

Anyone have a prefrence over the others? So far Im liking the Edge Pro or the Wicked Edge. Both seem to have their own pros and cons.

Just wondering if anyone had tried either of these.

Thanks and God Bless
Mike
 
Mike, I love doing it by hand but that takes time, patience and practice. Out of the two you've mentioned I would choose the Edge Pro mostly out of familiarity and abundance of good Japanese water stones that are available for it. A few distributors have a line of Naniwa stones cut to size for it, barring natural Japanese stones, the Naniwa's are my favorite.
 
What up Dogs? Sorry I just had to say that ha. Ok so I am an owner of an edge pro pro series. After conquering the beginner learners curve, I get incredible results. Very pleased. I was reading through some forums and found people using after market stones and getting stupid sharp blades. In my collection, I have the 120,220,320,600,1000 grit stones. 2000,3000,7000 polish tapes. I want to take the edge I get from this sharpener and taking them to the next level. What are the best aftermarket stones ya'll would recommend.
 
Chosera and Naniwa Japanese water stones are my favorite for wicked sharp edges. A few places sell them for the EP.
 
From finished blade to sharpening.
I normaly start my initial bevel on the platen with a fresh 220 belt. once a bur is visible, I goto 400 with a stiff slack belt and continue up thru 800 grit, then 40, 20, 15 and 9 ,micron. I then strop with green chrome on steel backed leather , then white, then Mothers mag wheel cleaner.

My question is at what point in this process would i use the fixture and stones? after initial bevel on 220?

Thanks and God Bless
Mike
 
Mike first off, if you're using Japanese water stones you'll want to know their P or US equivalent here is a table I found.

I took some advice from Dave over at KF a while ago and some of the other guys ... anyhow, I was told to divide the microns in half and that should be my next stone in the progression. So, if I was at 9 micron coming off the belts, I'd want to start at 9 microns on a stone as they cut differently and move down from there to a 4.5 or 5 micron ( I believe a J stone in the 5k range like the Rikia would work) and you can continue from there down to .5 micron with stone and down to .25 with diamond spray and sub .25 using smooth leather.

Personally I set my primary bevel on belts and start at 500g with a Bester, 1k Naniwa, 2k Glass Stone, 5k Rikia, 8K Glass Stone, 10k Naniwa, Kytayama followed by: stropping on a felt pad, Chromium on leather, .25 Diamond on scrubbed bull, then smooth leather and lastly I strop on sugar cane paper. But honestly, you get a darn good edge at 5k followed by stropping. The rest of my progression comes from an obsession with sharp rather than practicality. Hope this helps.


Particle
Size
µ U.S Japanese
0.5 12000 25000 Chromium Oxide Polishing Compound, Moor White Ceramic
1 5000 10000 Honyama Awasi (Brown Stone), Linde C Compound (Aluminum Oxide Powder)
2 3000 6000 Karasu (Blue Stone), Awasi Toshi
3 2000 4000 Uchigumori, Extra Fine White Ceramic, Green Chrome Rouge, Spyderco Extra Fine Ceramic
6 1200 2500 Ao-To (Blue Stone), Spyderco Fine Ceramic
10 1000 2000 Hard Black Arkansas, Extra-Fine Diamond Hone, Lansky Ultra-Fine Hone
15 800 1500 Koma-Nagura, Hard White Arkansas, Extra Fine Diamond, Medium Ceramic, Moor Black Ceramic
20 600 1000 Soft Arkansas, Lansky Fine Hone, Ultra Fine Scotch-Brite Pad, Spyderco Medium Ceramic
25 480 800 Chu-Nagura, Washita Stone, Fine Diamond
35 320 500 Kaisei (Natural Sandstone), Fine India, Medium Diamond, Super/Extra Fine Scotch-Brite Belt/Pad
45 280 400 Medium India, Fine Crystolon (Silicon Carbide), Coarse Diamond, Lansky Medium Hone
60 220 300 Binsui Coarse Stone, Extra Coarse Diamond Hone, Very Fine Scotch-Brite Belt/Pad
80 180 260 Fine Scotch-Brite Belt/Pad
90 150 220 Medium Crystolon (Silicon Carbide), Coarse India, Medium Scotch-Brite Belt/Pad
110 120 180 Arato (Natural Sandstone Or Carborundum), Lansky Course Hone
150 100 150 Coarse Crystolon (Silicon Carbide)
180 80 90 Lansky Extra Coarse Hone, Coarse Scotch-Brite Belt/Pad
 
Helps tremendously Mike! Thank you for posting that information!
As i am getting deeper into the chefs knives im realizing there is a whole diffrent level of "Sharp"!


God Bless
Mike
 
I have both systems. I bought the Wicked Edge because I could, with absolute certainty, put an edge on a newly made knife without scratching the polished surface. It works just fine. It is pretty well made. The Edge Pro is very well made. It will put a superb edge on a knife and it is not difficult to learn to use. If all you are doing is sharpening knives go with the Edge Pro. I have one suggestion for you. Get a blank plate, the ones that the stones glue to, and glue a big, fat piece of harness leather to it. Dose the leather with diamond paste. This will give you a finished edge that is amazing. Unless you are forming a new edge you don't need the two coarsest grits. The 340 (I think) is about as course as you need for normal sharpening. Nicholas Jasper
 
Thank you for your input everyone. I Have a feeling I will go with the Edge Pro. Seems to be a solid system with quite a versitile range of stones.

Thanks, and God Bless
Mike
 
For about the same money as their Pro system, you can get one of these. Sharp Machine I bought one years ago at a gun show and absolutely love it! It takes about 5 minutes or so to take a new blade to scary sharp.
 
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