Sean Jones
Well-Known Member
I have a piece of spring steel from a ford truck that I've annealed with a fair amount of success and now I'm trying to get it completely flat so I can lay out my profile. It initially had a fairly good curve which I got mostly rid of when I annealed.
But...
Is this just a time consuming event when doing by hand, or am I doing something wrong?
I have a 4x36 grinder/sander from harbor freight. This is a thick piece of steel, a bit more than 1/2 " when I started. I've got the one side ground down to within a 1/16" of being absolutely flat but I still have high spots when I check with a flat edge.
I started with a 40 grit and then switched to an 80 when I got within about an 1/8"
What I've been doing at this point is running a felt-tip marker over the high spots, grinding the marked spot off and re-checking with the flat edge. But it's taking a very long time doing it this way.
Am I just being impatient? Or is there a quicker method of checking and getting it flat? Presumably this needs to be as flat and as true as I can get it before profiling, right?
Thanks for any responses.
But...
Is this just a time consuming event when doing by hand, or am I doing something wrong?
I have a 4x36 grinder/sander from harbor freight. This is a thick piece of steel, a bit more than 1/2 " when I started. I've got the one side ground down to within a 1/16" of being absolutely flat but I still have high spots when I check with a flat edge.
I started with a 40 grit and then switched to an 80 when I got within about an 1/8"
What I've been doing at this point is running a felt-tip marker over the high spots, grinding the marked spot off and re-checking with the flat edge. But it's taking a very long time doing it this way.
Am I just being impatient? Or is there a quicker method of checking and getting it flat? Presumably this needs to be as flat and as true as I can get it before profiling, right?
Thanks for any responses.