Copper Dagger

Wade Hougham

Wade Hougham

Well-Known Member
The 4" blade is 5 layers of 1080 and 15N20 with a copper ferric etch.
The handle is deer leg bone with copper and it has a hemp wrap. Total length is 9".
KT saw this blade and just had to have it.
 

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Wade just plain outstanding. I dont know what to say about you that hasn,t beem said except maybe that your a nice guy.I love it. KT:9::nothing::lol:
 
That is super nice Wade- don't know how do describe it - you have a very artistic eye to create these primitive yet beautiful looks that are uncommonly distinctive-:les:
 
All I can think of is that... I want one!

Fantastic job Wade. You have a style that is not like many others and you execute it so well. Keep 'em coming because you give me motivation to start thinking outside of the box.

I have so many questions but I don't even know where to begin. :biggrin:
 
Very cool in a weird sort of way.
I like it. The copper etch gives an added unique feature to the knife.
 
Thanks for the comments. :yes:
About a year ago a friend and I were making mokume and we etched it in ferric that same day we made some cable knives and used the same ferric, much to our surprise the copper in the ferric plated the cable. I marked the container copper ferric and put it on a shelf.

After forging the dagger and using good clean ferric for the first etch I remembered how the copper ferric reacted to the cable and gave it a try on the dagger. What you see is the result
 
AWESOME!!!

Wade I could go on and on about this knife but will leave it at AWESOME! :D

Stay sharp my friend!
Randy
 
Wade do you think that by increasing the copper content in the ferric it would then produce a heavier copper plate? The copper plate should give the blade some added rust resistent proporties. am I correct? How durable is the plate?
 
Thank you all, the comments are really appreciated.:yes:
Doug,
I have added more copper to the ferric and you do get a heavier plate too heavy for my liking. You can remove it easily with a heavy rubbing with a rag followed by a light sanding. Yes it should help against rust.
Thanks for commenting.
Wade
 
Very nice Brother Wade....That bone handle is awesome....
I like your copper experiment, add some low voltage dc to that bath and you have anodizing.....
I tried to anodize aluminum with unknown copper/blend for an exhibit but ended up with a gray alien mess, had to put it down, but NASA done it on the space shuttle....
 
Thanks Randy. If I go messin' with electricity and something wet I will blow up the place.:lol::lol::biggrin:
Wade
 
Wade, you never cease to amaze me. Unbelievable work. I keep looking to see what you come up with next my friend.
 
Man that is really nice. I don't know how I missed this. The handle material and finish all compliment each other. A fantastic piece of functional art.
 
I wonder if you had a deep etch on a piece of Damascus (say a extra 5 min longer than your standard etch) in clean ferric then dipped it in your copper ferric if the copper would plate to it then wipe it off the high spots leaving copper over the etched areas? So instead of having dark spots you would have copper etch. Hmmm. Might have to try this in a couple weeks when I get home from work.
 
Robert, Thanks for the comment.
Actually the copper is sticking to the 15n20 better than the 1080. This blade was etched for longer than normal time.
I tried low voltage as Randy suggested and also warmed the blade with a torch after the quench, on a rr spike, and it did seem to make for a better bond. Fun thing not having someone tell me what I have to do.:biggrin::biggrin::yes:
Wade
 
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