CA Glue on a Wood Handle

MTBob

Well-Known Member
I'm in the process of making a set of steak knives with differing kinds of wood handles. I'm curious whether the use of CA glue on natural (unstabilized) porous wood, say Zebra or Walnut, will result in a better finish than just using a plain Tru Oil finish? Or can CA glue be used as a filler prior to using Tru Oil? If CA glue is used should it be thin, medium or thick consistency - and what is the process?
 
Especially for a somewhat porous wood I'll use thin CA glue and wed sand with it to allow the sanding crud to fill the pores. After drying again sand CA to remove all except that inside the pores. The pores sorta become invisible. Then follow up with Tru-Oil or depending on wood, sand to 1200 grit or so the buff for a nice natural finish.
 
Remember that CA absorbs water. Will a full CA finish on a knife cloud if left wet? Does it return to clear when it dries?

A multi-coat CA finish can be a beautiful thing, like having 30 coats of Danish oil on a piece of furniture. Gives it depth and appeal.
 
Here's a follow up on my post above on using CA glue in a finish. This is from Stacy's post on another forum.


The best method of doing raw bog oak is a superglue finish. Bruce Bump developed one that has been the Gold Standard of superglue finishes.
Get a bottle of thin CA.
Get a bottle of CA-Debonder (you can use acetone, but Debonder works a bit better).
Get a stack of cut-up 400 grit sandpaper (3"X3" is good) and other paper up to 2000 grit.
Have a pile of cut up line free rags (do not use paper towels).

After the handle is sanded to 400 grit and is shaped as you want, apply a coat of the CA ... WEAR RUBBER GLOVES! (you can use acetone to remove cured CA from the blade or any place it gets you don't want to sand.
Let sit until mostly cured and then put some debonder on a rag and work the surface rubbing the CA into the wood as it dissolves. Work it for a while until it is smooth, wipe off the excess, and let it dry overnight. Sand lightly with 400 grit paper to remove all CA from the surface and repeat the CA sealing/removing again. The third time, instead of a rag use 400 grit paper on the debonder/CA slurry to wet-sand it into the wood. Once the slurry is gummy, wipe the excess off with a rag and let it dry overnight. Sand and fill at least three to ten more times. Once the handle is completely sealed, you can go up the grits to 2000 grit. Buff with a soft polishing cloth for a final shine. The handle will have a show-winning shine that is IN the wood, not ON it.

Stacy E.Apelt
 
Ken, thank you for the providing this process. I'm going to give it a try on a blank stock to see how it looks before using it on a near-finished knife. Fitso mentioned that there may be some risk of water impingement getting under the CA glue. If you've used the CA treatment, have you noticed any deterioration of the surface?
 
Did you see this old thread, Bob?

 
Not often at all have I used solely CA glue for a finish. I'll usually follow up with Tru-Oil to seal it in. A full CA finish done as above I think would be good - note the comment " shine that is IN the wood, not ON it"
 
Did you see this old thread, Bob?

Did not see this, thanks for the reference - that answers my question!
 
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