buffing compound question

K

KenH

Well-Known Member
Hello all, I've got a question about buffing compound. I've noticed buffing compound tends to develop a dark color, even on while or red rouge as I'm buffing. Is the compound turning dark because I'm pressing too hard at too high RPM causing the compound to burn turning dark?

I'm using a 1hp, 3450 rpm motor on an 8" muslin wheel, both loose and sewn wheels.

Should I be using less pressure to keep temperature down to prevent the rouge from turning dark? OR - using a 1725 RPM motor?

Thanks for any suggestions 'n guidance,

Ken H>
 
Ken,
I spoiled many a tube of buffing compound by "Trying Too Hard".
Try a slower speed and don't push too hard.
The most common error when buffing is when people believe that the buffer is for removing metal and large scratches.
Take your time, be careful and don't mix compounds and metals on the same wheel. Brass will turn the wheel green which will transfer quickly to any handle material it touches.

Just my opinion,
Steve
 
Thanks Steven - I understand from your comments that the rouge should NOT change color while buffing?

I do have a different wheels for each color, and one that stays "clean" with no compound for that final "touch" on handle materials. Normally I never touch the buffing wheel until I've wet sanded to at least 1500 grit.

Ken H>
 
All metals, when polished, produce a grey/black residue. This is the finely divided metal particals. So, each of your rouge colors will eventually turn dark or even black as more and more metal is polished off of the surface of the knife.
 
Cake-14N (interesting name, bet there's a story behind that one<:)

That is what I was thinking, but I got to thinking about it today and wondered if my black/grey residue was from the rouge getting too hot and burning. Perhaps not - I tend to try and keep temperature to no more than I can hold in my hand - sometimes it gets a bit warmer. Sometimes I think I'd like to setup 1725 RPM motor to try for final buffing to see if that would be an improvement over the 3450 RPM motor.

Thanks again to all for guidance,

Ken H>
 
Look at the Nielsen Interchangeable Disk System on my web-site. One of my disks has short shag carpet (cheap Wal-Mart bathroom carpet) glued on it. I buff with this because the buffer is the most dangerous machine in the shop. It will grab your knife out of your hand and throw it at you, probably about the time you get it good and sharp. Using the disk buffer you are working on the side of the disk (the flat part) so there is nothing to try to grab and you are working on 4 1/2" rather than 1". If you get the disk system with the motor and VFD you then also have the speed control. As many buffers and grinders as you want with only one machine.
 
Cake-14N said:
All metals, when polished, produce a grey/black residue. This is the finely divided metal particals. So, each of your rouge colors will eventually turn dark or even black as more and more metal is polished off of the surface of the knife.
Click to expand...

Cake is right.
The green compound turns dark quickly and the white compound emediately turns black. If your final sanding grit is high enough your blade should be warm but not burning hot. Moderate pressure is enough and keep your wheels charged up. 3450 is a dangerous speed for buffing, I can see all kinds of mishaps at that speed. My buffer runs at 1400 rpm with great results, but I don't buff unless I've sanded to 2500 minimum ...usually 3000 for a mirror polish.

Rudy
 
Yep, with 3450 RPM you do have to be aware while buffing. I tend to stand to the side of the wheel, and BE SURE the top edge does NOT approach the wheel itself or the wheel can grab the edge throwing the blade to the ground. I've got a 1/3 hp 1725 motor I'm thinking about getting an arbor for that motor shaft and trying that slower speed. I guess I could rig up an arbor shaft with pulley and select most any speed I wished for the wheel.

Thanks to all for suggestions 'n guidance,

Ken H>
 
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