Advice on grinders: 2x42 vs. 2x48?

SpyderNut

Member
Hey all,

It’s been quite a while since I was here last. I’m just getting ready to start some new blades and need some feedback. I’m thinking about upgrading my current grinder (1x30) to either a 2x42 or 2x48 grinder. (I’d eventually like to get a 2x72 grinder, but funds are limited at this time). Fortunately, I just recently discovered that I can get my favorite Norton Blaze R980 belts in both 2x42 and 2x48 through TruGrit.com.

First off, is there any noticeable benefit of the 2x48 over the 2x42? I’ve read that the “longer the belt, the better.” However, we’re only talking 6” difference here. Also, the cost difference between 2x42 and 2x48 belts appears to be almost negligible. What would be your recommendation?

Secondly, here’s what I’ve come up with so far on grinders:

JET offers a 2x42 grinder, which features an 8” disc sander. The max RPM on the belt is 3,100 fpm. Unfortunately, it is not a variable speed model. The price for the JET is $469.00. The motor is 3/4 horse. Pros: the platen does not extend beyond the width of the belt, which would allow for sharper grind lines and easier access to hard-to-reach areas. Cons: some of the customer reviews were not very positive (seemed like the overall quality of this model may be somewhat lacking).

Sears Craftsman also offers a 2x42 grinder which features a 6” disc sander. The max RPM on the belt is 4,400 fpm. This is also not a variable speed model. The price for this model is $152.99. The motor is 1/3 horse. Pros: the low price point makes this model a pretty attractive option. I’ve used my 1x30 Craftsman grinder for about 15 years now without any major issues. Cons: the platen extends beyond the width of the belt, which means I would either have to modify it or have a new platen made to match the exact width of the belt.

I know there are probably a lot of other makes/models out there, so any feedback is most welcome. Thanks in advance for your help!

-Michael
 
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Michael,
My 2 cents here is to hold out for a 2 x 72' Grinder. Look here. www.cootebeltgrinder.com and if you can't do that. Go for the less expensive Craftsman and keep saving for that 2 x 72"

The other good thing about the craftsman is that you get another one from them if it ever breaks and unfortunately they seem to be a little less quality every year.

Laurence

www.rhinoknives.com
 
Thanks for the input, Laurence. I’ve looked at the Coote grinders before, and they appear to be of pretty good quality. The only drawback (for me) is that I’d have to add my own motor and pulley (which would obviously add a bit more to the overall cost).

On a side note, what are your thoughts on buying a used 2x72 grinder? I haven’t done much research on that, but I would have to assume that there would be several available.
 
Michael,
Used can be great! it all depends on the machine, condition and of course price?
Look around your area for any knife makers Associations or groups and get to know the locals makers and see what is available.

Hooking up a motor isn't as hard as you think and I am not a electrian but can help walk you through it and Norman Coote is a very helpful man to his customers.

You don't need a new motor, Most any 1hp or larger will get you started.

Laurence

www.rhinoknives.com
 
You might also look into building your own 2x72. Both the GIB (grinder in a box) or the NWGS (No Weld Grinder Sander) are two excellent options, and not as expensive to get started as you might thing.

Motors can make up for a majorty of the cost, but if you shop around (craigslist, ebay, motor surplus stores, rebuild/rewind shops, etc...) you can probably find one for pretty cheap. I have an old Dayton 1.5 hp single phase that I got for $75 bucks.

I really wouldn't think it is out of the question to get started with a NWGS for well under $500 if you source your parts and materials carefully. The great thing about something like a NWGS is that you can get started for less money, but still be able to easily upgrade and expand as more funds come in.


Now, to answer your original question: You might find that there are a couple more options (or even more widely available options) for a 2x48, as I think it is SLIGHTLY more common (I could be wrong). Then again, with a 2x72 EVERYTHING is available.
 
You can modify the craftsman a bit and use it. Before my Pheer grinder arrived I was given one. It's OK if that your option.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bZwemN7t45g&feature=youtube_gdata_player

That's what I was thinking too. I've done some light modding to my 1x30 Craftsman over the years in order to get the desired results. I appreciate your help with this, George.


You might also look into building your own 2x72. Both the GIB (grinder in a box) or the NWGS (No Weld Grinder Sander) are two excellent options, and not as expensive to get started as you might thing.

Motors can make up for a majorty of the cost, but if you shop around (craigslist, ebay, motor surplus stores, rebuild/rewind shops, etc...) you can probably find one for pretty cheap. I have an old Dayton 1.5 hp single phase that I got for $75 bucks.

I really wouldn't think it is out of the question to get started with a NWGS for well under $500 if you source your parts and materials carefully. The great thing about something like a NWGS is that you can get started for less money, but still be able to easily upgrade and expand as more funds come in.


Now, to answer your original question: You might find that there are a couple more options (or even more widely available options) for a 2x48, as I think it is SLIGHTLY more common (I could be wrong). Then again, with a 2x72 EVERYTHING is available.

Thanks for your response, Andrew. I really appreciate it. I have a buddy who just upgrated to a NWG not too long ago and it seems to be working well for him so far. I'll do some more digging on that too. I think 2x72" will probably be the best bet in the end. What are your feelings on the Grizzly 2x72" grinders?
 
For what the Grizzly costs, you could easily build an "entry level" NWGS (maybe even a GIB) and you would not only have multispeed capability, but you would have an expandable grinder as well.

That said, a lot of makers got their start on a Grizzly, and many still use them. I've personally seen a handful of makers who would actually recommend it, but after doing the research myself when I first started this journey into knife making, I just didn't feel that the benefit outweighed the cost. Especially after factoring in the entry level cost for a flat platen setup on a NWGS.
 
Pass on the Grizzly and go up to the coote or the NWG that others have mentioned.
The grizz is single speed only and I haven't seen a maker that would recommend it?

Laurence

www.rhinoknives.com

For what the Grizzly costs, you could easily build an "entry level" NWGS (maybe even a GIB) and you would not only have multispeed capability, but you would have an expandable grinder as well.

That said, a lot of makers got their start on a Grizzly, and many still use them. I've personally seen a handful of makers who would actually recommend it, but after doing the research myself when I first started this journey into knife making, I just didn't feel that the benefit outweighed the cost. Especially after factoring in the entry level cost for a flat platen setup on a NWGS.

I see what you're saying. What is the main benefit to having multispeed (or variable speed) on a grinder? Also, when building a NWGS, do you have to buy the contact wheels separately, or do they come with the kit?
 
Michael,
Many makers are well suited by many levels of machinery. My last comment here is that when it comes to buying my machinery and other things in life, my motto is. Only cry once!

Buy the best you can afford because the sweetness of lower price fades fast when you are contantly thinking about for a bit more $$ you could have gotten the better machine and wouldn't have to upgrade the unit you just purchased.

Laurence

www.rhinoknives.com
 
Variable speed is beneficial when working with higher grits, as the faster speeds tend to burn the material much more readily. Even just having 3 speeds (low, med, high) makes a world of difference.

This is assuming you use a 1750 (or close to that) RPM motor with a typical 3 step pulley.
 
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