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Just to make sure it's clear, my question was answered just as I hoped. My previous response was not meant in any negative way and I'm sorry if it was taken as such.

Thanks, I'll try and translate all of that using my Google fu.

Pardon the ignorance, but say a guy could turn the lignum to said diameter and drill out the shaft hole. What is the rest constructed with?

I have an older Clark CPT series handheld tester I got used and in great shape for $150 to my door from a guy over on Practical Machinist. That's a $2,000 unit new. Search and you can find great deals. If you're buying used, there are several things to consider as I found out: 1. Make...

Sorry guys...I don't get to this forum as much as I should and didn't realize there were new posts in this. @ jmforge - The bolsters are peened on. @rhinoknives - The steel in this one is AEB-L

Here are some pictures of a gyuto I finished this evening. Specs: Blade Length - 254mm Spine Over Heel - 0.091" Spine 1/2 Way - 0.079" Spine 1/2" From Tip - 0.030" Shoulder at heel - 0.011" Shoulder at 1/2 way - 0.010" Shoulder 1/2" from tip - 0.08" Handle material is stabilized...

Thanks guys....much appreciated! Very rewarding to make some like these.

Steve - My website is hosted at GoDaddy and uses a Wordpress template. I believe I pay $7/mnth for the hosting and WP package and no cost for software. When I got started I looked at all kinds of different website building software both free and paid. I settled on the combination I did...

Here are some pictures of the first two kitchen knives I made completely by myself. My previous two knives were heat treated by gracious knife makers. First one is a 3.5" paring knife made of AEB-L blade at 61 HRC with a koa handle: Next one is a 150mm petty with a black...

If you ordered it online, you should be emailed a tracking number. If not, lof into your account and see if it's there. If not, call them, they don't bite hard. :) The drive belt can be as cheap as $10 or more than $30 depending on what you get bid recommend that V link stuff. Reduces vibration...

As best I can tell all of these are 3 phase motors which means you'll need a variable frequency drive (or phase converter) to run them off of your home's single phase power. All houses (barring some freak house) have single phase power. VFD's, new at least, will run $300ish and phase...

The dewar's for LN are extremely expensive....$750 and up. However, I found a local gas distributor that rents me one for $0.55/day. It's another option that can be persued if you want to cryo treat your blades.

I've read quite a few favorable reviews for the Sugar Creek, so I decided to get one. With the computer controls, it was about $250.00 less than the Evenheat. The max heat on the Evenheat is 2200 versus 2000 on the Sugar Creek, but that didn't matter to me...at least not right now.

p.s. It's not staying on the wood...just so I don't get yelled at.

Since this came from Tracy's shop....and I'm excited to get it.....I thought I'd share a picture of the new kiln. Wish me luck on figuring it out.

Fair enough. :) Thanks!

And I hate to be a cheap ass, but will this work upto 1,950 degrees? http://www.usaknifemaker.com/heat-treat-foil-tool-wrap-321-afi-002x20x25-up-to-1900f-p-2798.html I know I could ask Tracy, but I'm asking here. Title says 1,900, but text says 2,000. Anyone try it over 1,900 degrees?

Can the foil be reused? Before I order enough for all of the blades, wanted to check.

Thanks. What I figured, just want to make sure I really know what I think I know as I move forward.

I've read various things over the last few months and talked to a couple of knife makers about heat treating. Something that often comes up is that 1084 is easy to heat treat and others are more difficult. What makes one steel harder to heat treat than others? Each has their own...