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  1. SYD32

    Cerakoted my rifle

    I've used the oven cure (H-Series) Cerakote on some knives I've made previously, but wanted to try it on a rifle. Took me a few minutes to get over the though of sandblasting a nearly new S&W M&P 15X but it had to be done. Took quite a while to sandblast all of the parts down to bare metal...
  2. SYD32

    CPM S35 VN Heat treatment

    I've tried to search for some information on Heat treating CPM S35 VN but have had some difficulty finding results. My question is, is the heat treatment for CPM S35 VN the same as it is for S 30? thanks in advance!
  3. SYD32

    Latest Knives

    I've been working on these three knives for the last two weekends. Finally have them finished! #1 CPM 154 Mirror Finish Dyed Yellow stabilized Box Elder Burl Mosaic Pins File work along handle Nickel Silver Bolsters #2 CPM 154 Mirror Finish Stabilized Maple Burl Mosaic Pins...
  4. SYD32

    Etching Question/Problem

    I know this topic has been addressed before but I can't find it in my searches. When I etch my maker's mark on a knife I use a stencil from Ernie and a personalizer plus. I always use blue painters tape to keep my stencil flat an the blade. I use the felt pads that came with the machine as...
  5. SYD32

    Thin Blue Line

    Here is one I just finished today. Blade is hollow ground from CPM-154 1/4 inch bar stock and mirror polished. The blade is 5 1/4 inches long and the overall length of the knife is 10 inches. Stainless loveless bolts hold the polished linen micarta scales on to the full tang. The scales are...
  6. SYD32

    Latest Knife & a Turkey

    I am sure that most of you feel the same way I do in that you can't find enough time to stay in the workshop. So in between a full time job, baseball practice for two young boys and some great hunting trips i found some time to finish this knife. The knife is hollow ground from CPM 154 bar...
  7. SYD32

    First Knife with Cerakote

    Here is my first try with Cerakote. The CPM-154 hollow ground blade is 5 1/2 inches long with the overall length of the knife is 11 inches. The full tang knife was ground from 5/32 stock. The handles are rough contoured green canvas Micarta with a red fiber liner. Stainless steel loveless...
  8. SYD32

    Large Clip Point

    Largest knife I have made yet. 5 3/4 inch blade hollow ground from 5/32 CMP 154 bar stock. Handles are ironwood with a stainless bolster and red fiber spacer. overall length is 10 5/8 inches. In hindsight I should have put the forward mosaic pin in a little higher on the handle...
  9. SYD32

    Latest Knives

    Here are 3 of my most recent knives. They are all hollow ground from CPM 154 that is 5/32 thick. They all have stainless steel bolsters. The two wood handled knives are made from Desert Ironwood. The last is Mycarta. Thanks for looking!
  10. SYD32

    Sand paper

    I've heard a lot of positive comments about rhynowet sandpaper and plan on making a purchase in the near future. I intend to use the 9x11 sheets on my 9inch disc grinder as well as for hand sanding blades and handle material. My question is which product is best suited for this application, the...
  11. SYD32

    Etching a Coated Blade

    I've been contemplating applying Cerakote to a few blades and was wondering if you could etch the maker's mark onto the blade after it has been coated? I searched through the forum and couldn't find the answer. Does anyone know? Thanks
  12. SYD32

    Frustration!

    I've been working on a drop point with mosaic pins and ironwood handles. Today as I was profiling the handle I noticed that one of the smaller pins within the mosaic pin was too short. Initially i thought i could just make the handle a little slimmer but it was way too short. I am usually...
  13. SYD32

    Camp Knife

    This is my first attempt at making a camp style knife. The blade is 5/32 CPM 154 that is hollow ground. The blade was heat treated by TX Knifemakers. The blade is 5 1/2 inches long and the handle is 5 inches. The bolsters are 416 stainless steel. I tried to "texture" the black linen micarta...
  14. SYD32

    Desert Eucalyptus Hunter

    Just finished this knife. I was asked to use desert eucalyptus wood for the handles by the customer. The wood scorched with every belt I used. I tried everything from a 36-grit Cubitron to 220-AO. High speed and low speed and the results were the same. Well it is finally done and I won't...
  15. SYD32

    Most Recent Skinner

    Finished this one up a few days ago. It is hollow ground from ATS-34. Heat treat was done by TX Knifemakers. The handles are stabilized Black Ash. This is the last of my ATS-34, my next few blades are CPM-154-CM. I will also start using 416 SS for the bolsters instead of the nickel silver...
  16. SYD32

    Cleaning up bar stock

    I recently purchased 6 feet of 5/32 x 1 1/2 CPM 154 CM. The steel is very rough on the surface, lots of pits and dimples. I've been cutting out the profile of the knife then trying to true it up on 9" disk sander or on the flat platen of my TW-90. I am not getting very good results with...
  17. SYD32

    Threaded bolts for handles?

    I have seen so many people using torx and allen head bolts to attache handles on fixed blade knives. How do you do it? Do you thread the holes in the tang of the knife before heat treat and then grind the bolts down so they are long enough to "bite" but leave enough room for the bolt on the...
  18. SYD32

    Amboyna Burl Hunter

    I just finished up this stabilized Amboyna burl hunter. The blade is a hollow ground ATS-34 that was treated by Texas Knifemakers. File work from the handle to the blade. There are nickel silver and black spacers that accentuate the dovetailed nickel silver bolsters. Mosaic pins finish it off.
  19. SYD32

    Finished it today

    Here it is, knife #5. I tried to make the file work on the handle resemble a snake to match the scales on the sheath. Didn't work out as well as I had planed. Thanks for looking!
  20. SYD32

    Bead Blasting & Maker's Mark

    I tried to search the forum for the answer to my question and haven't had any luck. When you are going to have a bead or abrasive blasted finish, do you etch your maker's mark before or after the blasting process? Thanks!
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