Search results

I like the design of the integral handle with the hawk instead of a hawk attached to a wooden handle. I have a lot of different sizes of 5160 steel, but not one piece is big enough to make a one piece hawk. Would it be possible to forge the head, then weld a handle on the head and grind down the...

What are the advantages of the ramp master vs the set pro?

Thanks to everyone who posted on this thread. As it turns out, I was applying too much pressure and got plastic deformation. I could really see it on the Mora with a scanti grind. Hardly any pressure was required to flex the blade with elastic deformation, way less then when I was initially...

So if 35 pounds is applied to the edge and it showed elastic deformation for a given edge geometry, can enough force, say 45 pounds be applied and the edge show plastic deformation with the same given edge geometry? Could it be that I am not seeing the blade flexing and applying too much...

I am looking at buying a heat treating furnace and need some suggestions. My budget is around $1200. I like forging bigger type blades, ie camp knives and zombie choppers :lol: Maybe eventually short swords. What furnace would you recommend? Paragon, Sugar creek, even heat...others?

Zombie chopper, camp knife. I did make a EDC with approx 22 deg convex, that one flexed real easily. I was able to chop through #12 copper wire, which is approx 5/64" with no damage to the blade on all my knives. Even the Mora with a Scanti grind, which flexed the most and remained flexed was...

The blade on the slack belt on the edge is around 30 degrees. 5160 was tempered at 350 degrees for 2 hours x 2 and the 1095 was tempered at 450 degrees for 2 hours x 2. I have a hard time judging 35 lbs of pressure. With my body type and exercise program, I'm probably pressing alot more than...

The blades will chop through a piece of 3/16" thin walled brass tube without any damage.

The blades flex and stay flexed. I am forging to shape and using a convex grind.

I was reading in the $50 Knife Shop and Wayne Goddard discusses the 1/4" brass rod test. I tried it on my 9260, 5160 and 1095 blades and they didn't pass. Then I tested a Mora knife, Imperial M10 bayonet, Alabama damascus blade, 9260 Cheness sword, all did not pass. The only blade that passed...

pictures please once it is assembled!!!

what is NT kith???

Kevin, what temperature would you recommend to temper the blade if at all?

I wish I read this before going to the shop. After normalizing x 3, I heat treated at 1525 deg. I tested a file on it and it bits into it. I was actually able to file on it fairly easily. Guess I'll try the forge at 1600 deg. BTW, I was looking for some 5160 for my hunting knife and all the shop...

I normalized 3 times prior to HT. I don't know about the exact temps. A HT oven may be next in order :) Thanks to all for the great input!!!

I picked up some 1/4"x1" 9260 steel and forged a semi-skinner. I was told to heat treat it the same as 5160. The pyrometer read around 1525 in the rear of the forge, but since the blower is located in the center and somewhat tangent to the tubular forge, it is hotter in the middle than the rear...

I recently got my digital pyrometer to show me temps in my forge. I can choke down the flow to get fairly consistant readings ie 1525 deg for 5160 and 1475 deg for 1095, +/- 10-20 degrees. Will this suffice for heat treating high carbon blades or should I buy an electrial oven such as a paragon...

I'll go to the pawn shop and look for a cheap baseball bat to use as a thwacker. Update: the zombie chopper passed the edge test, rolled the whole edge on a 1/4" brass rod with no chipping or edge deformation, chopped through a 2x4 and it was still able to shave on the area that did all the...

When forging out the bevel/belly of bigger blades, WIP around 11", the distal end keeps bending up. I tried forging the blade with the opposite bend, but the distal end keeps bending up and I had to forge it back to straight after each heat with the belly/bevel and then address and twisting of...

Does anyone use a pyrometer when heat treating in a forge or do most go by color and a magnet?