working with stabilized wood and G10 liners

C

Cameron Wilcox

Well-Known Member
I am putting the handle scales on my KITH knife and I plan on using Madrone burl with hunter orange and brown G10 liners. I have never worked with wood or G10 so are there any warnings/tips for working with them? I know I have to be careful or the wood will scorch and that the fiberglass from G10 bill be very itchy, but I have not seen much about finishing these two materials.
 
I can't add much, but here's a few things I do.

First, I make sure all surfaces that are to be epoxied are flat. Either use sandpaper on a flat surface or the platen on your grinder. If those surfaces are already flat, make sure you rough them up with some coarse sandpaper before epoxying. I also make small dimples in the surface of the scales and liner to give the epoxy a better grip on things.

I'd suggest you use files and sandpaper to start with. It's hard to burn anything if you're sanding by hand. You'll make a minute amount of dust while filing and sanding, but not near as much if you were using a grinder or power sander. Plus, when sanding and filing, it's hard to take too much off. Not so when using a grinder!

I'd also suggest getting some 30 minute or longer epoxy. The 5 minute stuff that is everywhere can set up a wee bit quick when you're trying to get everything just so. I use Brownells Accu Glass. Ace Hardware sells some that has 30 minute and 60 minute work time.

Good luck and don't forget to share the finished job with us!
 
I would avoid house brand epoxies. I have a feeling that they may have short shelf lives. I've had some from both Ace and Lowes in the 60 minute formula and the epoxies never cured. I have some 60 minute Loctite that sets up well and others have spoken highly of it. Personally, I have used Acraglass bedding compound because it is designed to hold up for years without breaking down, which can be a problem with some of the other epoxies. I've just received some of the West System marine epoxy which is also designed to hold up over very long periods of time but I've not had the chance to use it yet. I've also used JB Weld but mainly as a substitute for solder for metal parts.

Working with stabilized wood is rather straight forward. I haven't used any yet but I've got some wood that I need to send out for processing. No need to seal; just sand and buff.

I have used G10 and it makes great handles. It also did very ugly things to my band saw blade in cutting just two sets of scales. If you have a bi-metal blade you should be ok.

Doug
 
My experience with g -10 is to be sure you have new belts at medium speed. Orange color seems to burn very easily if you do not handle it correctly.
 
YES! Make sure you wear a respirator while working the G-10 in particular!
That stuff tears off in little fish hooks and once they enter your lungs, The only way to remove them is by autopsy. That is after you have attained room temperature.:biggrin:

Very nasty stuff! Last time I used it I started itching where it had made contact with my skin.

Hardly use it now.

Laurence

www.rhinoknives.com
 
The only advice I can offer is to restate what Laurence said, "WEAR A RESPIRATOR!!!". G-10 is awesome handle material, but it is some nasty stuff that makes a horrible mess of your shop when grinding. Be sure you have good ventilation in your shop and whatever you do, DO NOT get around family members (or others) after working with G-10 til you've changed clothing and showered. You should really have a vacuum system at your grinder if working it by that method.

After working G-10, you'll need to spend a few hours cleaning your shop to get rid of the dust. It gets EVERYWHERE. My wife keeps asking if she can come to my shop, but due to the G-10 dust still hiding in nooks and crannies I won't let her anywhere near (she's 6 months pregnant) even with wearing her respirator. If I've been handling G-10, I strip at the back door before entering the house.
 
You're definitely correct about the respirator. Mine hangs on the grinder to help remind me to wear it when using the grinder and I try to remember to wear it when I'm using my Dremel too. G10 does make great handles but then so does Micarta and it won't tear the teeth off the band saw blades if they're not bi-metal plus there's not the problem with tiny strands of fiberglass all over the place. My shop vac stays plugged in and I vacuum everything down well, shop apron included, before I take off my respirator regardless of what I'm working with.

Doug
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top