In general....
20-25 tons is the norm. My press is adjustable from 24-30 tons, and it's almost always at 24-25. Larger tonnage presses tend to cause more damage than good, unless there is a specific application where the Bladesmith needs higher tonnage (such as making "loaves" or creating huge billets.) My general rule of thumb is that whatever I'm working on does not get pressed any more than approx 1/4" at a pass/bite. Many who are not familiar with using a press have it in their head(s) that they can take for example, a 1" thick piece, and "press" it down to 1/8" in one stroke....all that does is wreck steel. A press is more about precision, taking small bites, with more control than a power hammer can offer.
The usual components you will see are.....
- 5hp/3450 rpm motor
-11gpm or better hydraulic pump
-6" or larger diameter cylinder (the amount of throw is up to you)
-Lots of HEAVY gauge steel for the frame, etc.
What must be considered and understood about a forging press is that you simply cannot "overbuild" one. There are so many incredible forces at work....in many different directions. For years I used a press that was built on a 6" "I" beam, with 1/2" flanges, and web.....it finally fatigued apart. The press I use not is based on a similar "I" beam design, but with much heavier materials....3/4" flanges, and web, with 3/8" thick "gusset" plates to help prevent flexing during use.
drop some of my hardened 1045 rod into
From that I get the impression that you're planning on using something "heat treated" for dies? If so, don't waste your time/money. It doesn't matter what heat treated type of steel you use for press dies, then will not last any longer than plain old A36 hot roll. Why? The intense heat from working hot steel will quickly temper out whatever you use for dies to the point where it's dead soft anyway. I once had the bright idea that I was going to purchase and build dies of D2 so they would last....I wasted about $300 on D2, all the time and effort to heat treat it, and within a month it was mushrooming out with the edges rolling just like A36. Since then, I use A36, and tack weld it to my die plates....then when it starts deforming, I just cut the tack welds, and replace the dies with a new piece of A36.
