Wax finish for handles?

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KNIFE MAKER
Hey guys...I did an experiment with a handle. I sanded it to 600 grit, dipped it in Min-wax pre-stain conditioner (a very thin sealer)let dry. sanded it again (600), dipped it again. let dry. 0000 steel wooled it....then coated it heavily with bowling alley wax...let dry. Buffed it on low rpm (8" dia buffing wheel at 300-500 rpm) and the finish is very nice.

Have any of you finished a handle like this? it's a very classy satin look...but will it last?
 
...but will it last?
That is the $1Million question! :) Only way to know....it to either get it in the hands of "testers".... or take the time/effort to find out. ;)

I can say that for a long time, there are certain varieties of exotic woods that in my shop, receive/received a fine hand sanded finish, a light buff, and then multiple coats of wax.....and that's it.

I don't think there is any "one size fits all" handle finish. I also believe that finish is determined BY the specific handle material type.... and when it comes to woods....it even comes down the specific species.

I'm familiar with that minwax conditioner. It has one fatal flaw.... it is NOT waterproof. I tried both this and the minwax "wood hardener" back in the days when I was trying various things for stabilizing. Either used by itself ........ If you get either wet and dry it soon, you're OK.... but I tested both by leaving on the picnic table in the backyard overnight. In the morning we had a heavy dew, and both blocks of maple that I used these products on.... had turned milky white.

That being said, I never went any further with either....so finishing with the wax may make either usable. Back to "testing"! :)
 
I don't think there is any "one size fits all" handle finish. I also believe that finish is determined BY the specific handle material type.... and when it comes to woods....it even comes down the specific species.
Good point Ed...the Bolivian Ironwood is so hard and so oily...I can actually buff it with nothing but a dry buff and it gets a sheen...add a little wax...it gets a shine. I probably would have no worries there...
The claro walnut is dry and not oily...sucks up any sealer like a sponge. A couple coats of wax....beautiful lustre and no glare...pores are sealed but not filled to the surface... wood is a bit darker, highlights visible but more understated....very much an "old school" gun-stock look...which seems to go nice on these Bowies...

How did your wax finishes hold up?
 
I generally just fine hand finish, light buff, and wax the following..... African Blackwood, Desert Ironwood, Cocobolo, and any other woods that I feel are not conducive to stabilizing, or Tru-Oil finishes.

I've always been one to "test" things before actually doing it on any knife I sell, whether that be me, of preferably others doing the "testing". (I always feel like I'm getting the best feedback when it's coming from someone else. :)
When I first started using a paste wax "finish" on certain handles (Years ago), my testers were hunting guides, and myself. I did the same thing before I'd offer Damascus blades using Gun-Kote. In that instance, I not only had knives in the hands of hunting guides, but also carried one of the knives myself.... for TWO hunting seasons before I pronounced it fit for clients/customers.

One big contrast that I see with knifemaking in general now, versus a decade or more ago, is the concern on both buyers and makers part for longevity. Not just the longevity of the overall knife/knives, but on the "little things" that I feel really matter.... things such as "glues/epoxies", finishes for both blades and handles/hardware, etc. This is another area where FIF has had a negative impact on the Custom Knife World.... teaching people to use 5 min epoxy, and all kinds of other inferior materials/methods.

The one thing that I see being used considerably these days are the composite handle materials/handles made of of resins and wood, and/or the aluminum "honeycomb" and resin handles. Nobody has yet come up with any of the clear resin/epoxy type stuff that will hold up to a knife handle for the long term, nor solve the fact that the natural material WILL move, and the synthetic will not..... nobody using or buying a finished knife with it thinks about that... they use it because it's "cool looking" and the current fad. And like it or not, in the current state of things, it doesn't matter if the person who's knife failed is a "newbie".... or not even a serious knifemaker..... it reflects badly on anyone who calls themselves a Bladesmith/Knifemaker. Sorry...got WAY off track there...but I think it does have some bearing on the subject at hand. :)
 
I have a partial memory of a trick of hard coating wax on a handle by loading a hard felt buffer with hard carnauba. It literally melts the wax on both wheel and handle. Sadly, that's all the aged brain delivers, and no more. :)

Anyone else ever heard of this?
 
Sorry...got WAY off track there...but I think it does have some bearing on the subject at hand.
Not way off track!...and great stuff Ed. All part of what it takes to make a good handle.

I bought some fancy acrylic handle material a few years back. have not put it on any knife I've sold. The stuff is SOOO soft i don't feel like it's a good material. I went to Corian but that is so hard on the other end (wears out belts!) that I only use it with handles with large radii as I'm nervous about cracking. I have tested it on cement and asphalt and it has held up well though i did chip a handle doing the fling test accidentally on a buffing wheel. I think it hit the bench leg...but my eyes don't move that fast. But no cracking...

I believe the bowling alley wax is mostly Carnuba They have that mix wired...I do NOT let it dry to buff with a wheel. You get a more even finish by buffing as soon as you coat. I'm up to 1400 rpm and that seems to work great. Once it gets sticky to hard it will actually pull fibre off your buffing wheel. So a quick pass all over for evening out the wax...then another pass leaning on it a bit for the shine. then a hand rub with paper towel and it's a nice satin...
 
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