Swedge help again

Retroguy

Well-Known Member
E5FAEF81-3920-4B68-B4CD-27C547D0C242.jpeg6658B21A-9DEE-4DCB-AB42-B293C5D9A963.jpegTypically I think see swedges swooping up in a Bowie. Mine is swooping down. Is that unacceptable?
TCan I correct it? Can somebody draw a line on how it should be or should I go with this. The scratch on the black is just that a little scratch, not where I intended the swedge to go.[/ATTACH] This is still pre heat treat. Also knife OA is 12 inches. Does the handle look a little too big/long. I opted to do a full tang knife with a small integrated guard. I’m not ready for hidden yet.
 
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Chris Railey

KNIFE MAKER
I am not sure what you are asking. My understanding of a Bowie is that they typically have a clip point regardless if they have a swedge or not. I am sure there are exceptions but a clip point to me is proper on a Bowie.
 

Chris Railey

KNIFE MAKER
I think I get what you are saying now. The curve goes down toward the tip but rises to the point. Its a deeper curve than you have now. If that is what you mean I would think it would be up to you how to finish the curve out to the tip. Personally, I do not like that look where the clip goes down below the tip then rises to the point it just looks off to me, but I have seen some nice Bowies shaped that way. Its hard to see your curve so if you can post a picture directly from the side it would help. In the end its your project though, do the tip you like.

This is a no for me dawg...
1570206514391.png
 
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Retroguy

Well-Known Member
Does the sharpie line look a little better as far as the curve. Also not sure if I want to square off the spine parallel with the blade or keep a small curve. I just don’t want to end up with a neck Bowie. 8CA9C461-F4FC-4A93-9391-B5276E1FA4E1.jpeg I have to go slower 8CA9C461-F4FC-4A93-9391-B5276E1FA4E1.jpegnext time with the swedge.
 

Retroguy

Well-Known Member
I think I get what you are saying now. The curve goes down toward the tip but rises to the point. Its a deeper curve than you have now. If that is what you mean I would think it would be up to you how to finish the curve out to the tip. Personally, I do not like that look where the clip goes down below the tip then rises to the point it just looks off to me, but I have seen some nice Bowies shaped that way. Its hard to see your curve so if you can post a picture directly from the side it would help. In the end its your project though, do the tip you like.

This is a no for me dawg...
View attachment 70333
I get what you are saying. I appreciate the direction. Check out the following picture regarding the curve.
 

Chris Railey

KNIFE MAKER
Again, it is really up to you...If I say yes you may hate it...If I say no you may hate it. Color all the material you intend to remove black with the sharpie. That helps me visualize what the end result will be. If you do not like it, just hit it with some rubbing alcohol and color again until you like what you see. I think you could make a little more curve but I also think it is fine as is. I am not much help really.
 

Bruce McLeish

Well-Known Member
I'd start with taking off half of what you have marked, Look at it for awhile, then decide if more needs to be removed. I'd also curve that swedge just a bit more to start. AS has been said, you can always remove more, but it is a REAL pain to put it back.!
 

opaul

Well-Known Member
Could it be the harpoon shape is throwing visuals off. Try drawing a straight spine and see what it looks like.
 
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Retroguy

Well-Known Member
Again, it is really up to you...If I say yes you may hate it...If I say no you may hate it. Color all the material you intend to remove black with the sharpie. That helps me visualize what the end result will be. If you do not like it, just hit it with some rubbing alcohol and color again until you like what you see. I think you could make a little more curve but I also think it is fine as is. I am not much help really.
Chris your opinions and others are always helpful. I listen to them all then it helps me make my decision. So if it ends up in the bin, it’s on me. You already have given me a better direction and I like where it’s going.
 

Chris Railey

KNIFE MAKER
Good luck with it. I still like the shape. There is something about the widest part of a blade being where the clip starts that I just like. I first forged that shape when I did a Seax a while back and I have liked it ever since.
 

EdCaffreyMS

"The Montana Bladesmith"
Don't get to wrapped around the axle about it. "Swedges" are very often the "trademark" of various Bladesmiths/Knifemakers.....everybody does them a bit differently. What I have found it that after being around the knife world for a while.....you can often tell who made a given Bowie by the "swedge". ;)
 

Retroguy

Well-Known Member
I still might be overthinking this. Do I grind the swedge after the main bevel is made? For example can swedge be made on any knife after the main bevel is made or do I have to leave some meat at the tip before doin* the swedge. This is hard for me to explain my problem. Even a recommendation to a you tube video would be good. I can’t seem to find one. EDIT> I just watched one by Dave Evader that helped a bit.
 
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EdCaffreyMS

"The Montana Bladesmith"
I always grind swedges, false edge, etc. AFTER heat treat.....grinding the blade bevel to completely finished before ever starting on the swedge/false edge, etc. One tool that I use to finish out these types of "features" are the the large flat diamond sharpeners for DMT..... https://www.amazon.com/DMT-FWFC-Double-Diafold-Sharpener/dp/B00004WFTW/ref=sr_1_12?crid=IR9FHC5FSMXB&keywords=dmt+sharpening+stone&qid=1570566709&sprefix=DMT+shar,aps,219&sr=8-12 I have 3 of the double sided ones in the finish shop, from 120 through 800 grit.... paste that the finish is sandpaper/sanding sticks.
 

Retroguy

Well-Known Member
I always grind swedges, false edge, etc. AFTER heat treat.....grinding the blade bevel to completely finished before ever starting on the swedge/false edge, etc. One tool that I use to finish out these types of "features" are the the large flat diamond sharpeners for DMT..... https://www.amazon.com/DMT-FWFC-Double-Diafold-Sharpener/dp/B00004WFTW/ref=sr_1_12?crid=IR9FHC5FSMXB&keywords=dmt+sharpening+stone&qid=1570566709&sprefix=DMT+shar,aps,219&sr=8-12 I have 3 of the double sided ones in the finish shop, from 120 through 800 grit.... paste that the finish is sandpaper/sanding sticks.
Is that finishing stick also used to sharpen knives. I still haven’t learned that skill and need to start somewhere . Stones, grinder , not surely what’s best for me to learn.
 
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