starters guide to making a folder

Oze

Well-Known Member
#1
Loving being a new member of the forum from down under in Australia.
Can someone advise the best way to learn how to make a simple folder? Patterns, directions etc. Thank you. Oze
 

Sticks

Well-Known Member
#3
Hello! I haven't made a slipjoint in a while. But here's a link to a WIP I did years ago. If the link doesn't post correctly you should be able to find it by searching my posts. I would add two comments. First, if you don't have a surface grinder make sure you use "precision" or flat-ground steel for the blade and back spring. A2 is good and inexpensive. Second, avoid using 304 stainless. It is not free machining, meaning it is tough to work with and you don't need to make this project anymore difficult than necessary. The 400 series stainless steel sheets are better for the liners, bolsters and pins.

Jay


https://www.knifedogs.com/threads/how-i-made-a-slipjoint-lemony-snicket.28619/
 

C Craft

Well-Known Member
#4
I've been here a while and I must have missed that one, great WIP. Photobucket wiped out most of the photos on the good ones!!
 

Sticks

Well-Known Member
#5
Thanks C Craft! I noticed, when I read the WIP that I re-posted, above, I said I would post a picture of liners that were relieved using an electro etcher rather than a mill. But, I didn't.

Here's some pictures of the next slipjoint that I made using the method described in the WIP. However, here the liners were relieved using the etcher rather than a mill. I used a variable speed grinder, drill press, files and a ton of sandpaper, solder, flux and an electro etcher, the kind used to mark your knife.

One thing I forgot to mention. Try using 3/32" flat ground for the blade and back spring. The 1/8" that I used for the knife in the WIP is thicker than necessary. I used 3/32 nd A2 for the knife pictured below. Also, as I noted, I never use any thing thicker that 1/8 inch stock for the bolsters and scales.


[/url]Lanny's Clip Parts by Stickles James, on Flickr[/IMG] 23167487554_f6288f4933_z.jpg 23713204721_66fef57ea3_z.jpg 23974258327_47edd391df_z.jpg 23167510284_965f0d707a_z.jpg 23974288577_6ea6c6bbec_z.jpg 27063048809_6ef1047ca1_z.jpg
 
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Oze

Well-Known Member
#6
Thankyou for your input. I do have some good grinding gear and been making some knives for a couple of years as a hobby. Been badly sucked into this though, it has become a mild obsession now. Do not have a milling machine. Don Robinson's name keeps coming up, so I will try to get hold of some of his works. I will post a photo of a few things I have made. Handles I enjoy and seem to come up ok but I know the blades are still poor. Only made about 12 knives. IMG_1149.JPG IMG_1033 (2).JPG The kitchen knife is made of beefwood and holder from gidgee (Oze type of wattle tree). The two 17 inch monsters below were inspired by all Bill Luckett's works. Seeing what he does really inspired me to kick on a bit. The steel in both is CPM154. The middle handle is brass with gidgee handle. Bottom on is mulga (Oze wattle too). Both woods rank in the top few for hardness. I have a supplier from in the outback who can supply when needed. The black is buff horn. Cheers Oze. IMG_1149.JPG IMG_1033 (2).JPG
 

Oze

Well-Known Member
#9
Sticks. What do you mean when you say 'However, here the liners were relieved using the etcher rather than a mill. .........................and ................ solder, flux and an electro etcher, the kind used to mark your knife'.?
Are the bolsters pinned to the sides or is it one piece with the handle space ground out?
Cheers Oze.
 

Sticks

Well-Known Member
#10
Oze, on both slipjoints that I posted the bolsters are silver soldered on to the liners. After they are soldered and shaped to the liners the scales are added and shaped. After many try fittings, the liners with bolsters and scales (bone, wood micarta, whatever) are hammered on to opposing sides of the spring and blade using pin stock. If I had a mill I would mill out the area where the handle scales attach. If you aren't experienced soldering the bolsters, search this forum for an old, I mean 5-6 year old, post by Bill Vining where he provides instruction. Frankly, the process is a pain in the arse. Stainless steel is hard to solder and you must use the correct flux. Here we use 'Sta-Brite", I think its called. Later, if I got the name wrong I'll correct it. Dinner time now!
 

Don Robinson

Well-Known Member
#15
Loving being a new member of the forum from down under in Australia.
Can someone advise the best way to learn how to make a simple folder? Patterns, directions etc. Thank you. Oze
As John Wilson mentioned above, my books are available right here from Knife Dogs, or can be ordered from Amazon.com
 
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Justin Presson

Well-Known Member
#16
If you are into the more tactical folding knives like frame lock and linerlocks. Google search Bob Terzuola tactical folder he has a very good step by step on making that style knives. I did a step by step work in progress on making a frame lock but unfourtuntely Photobucket screwed that up and all of the photos are no longer avaliable.
 
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