small bearings+ full speed grinding on a slack belt attachment

zzknives

zzknives

Well-Known Member
Hi guys,

I wanna make me a slack belt attachment

Don´t have an inverter so my grinder / 3HP / runs on full speed

I wanted to use the smallest wheels I could get... probably a 1" and a 1.5" (wanna use them for making fingergrooves as well)

but that means the bearings will be pretty small too

can they take the speed and heat ?

??? AND where can I get that small contact wheels ?????

THX
AL
 
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Most of the knife supply shops will either have them or get them for you. Tru Grit. Sheffield Knifemakers Supply, U.S.A knifemakers Supply. You may be okay with the 1", and I know for sure the 1 1/2 will be fine. It's not the horsepower that creates the problem but rather the speed the bearings end up turning. I'm sure the place you buy will give you good information on both sizes. Frank
 
didn´t know about Tru Grit and have totally forgotten about Sheffield..THANKS!!!

Well change of plans..since there are Bader and Wilton contact wheels in which the bearings and shaft are pressed right into the wheel and no bearings on the outside like on the KMG´s attachment, I´ll probably get me 2 of those and make me the folk myself.

don´t need a slack belt attachment that badly

what´s the worst thing that could happen if the bearings turn too fast ??? does the rubber melt ?


I thought I could spare the bearings by turning the grinder on for only a short time.
just long enough to get finger grooves round

just a thought
 
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I'm not sure what full speed means but bearings need to shed heat build up some how. If they don't, the seals get soft and the grease, which is turned to liquid leaks out and the metal self destructs. Now this is a normal process and happens to most bearings over time but running then flat out makes them fail all the quicker. They don't cost all that much so you could figure it in as a consumable.
 
if you have a local bearing supply this may be you best source for better bearings after the OE ones speed kills small bearings when you go for the replacments if you can give the guys the speed and approximate load they endure you will end up with the best bearings to suit the task
 
well full speed is about 1920/min

the wheels are not that expensive that´s right Tracy BUT what makes all the knifemaking supplies so expensive lately is the lack of shipping options to Europe...

only Priority Mail International is availabale anymore..what happend to good old AirMail ???
It still exists I know because I get stuff from ebay sellers all the time via AirMail...

And it does make a huge difference if a small item is shipped via Airmail for a few bucks or via Priority for $20-40

That hurts

Good idea about better bearings..I have to look into that..but like usual it´s not that easy to find supplies over here...
 
It wont take the high speed it will over heat . My 1 hp runs full speed and you will burn out the rubber . What I use is my drill press it has a 4 step pulley and I buy the drum sanding kit of various size arbours and drum paper tubes in 80 120 and 180 grit and they work auesome for finger grooves . kellyw
 
I use a 3/4" small wheel (KMG style) with a 3600rpm motor/4" drive wheel. The bearing life with this setup is limited and it is not difficult to melt the rubber on the wheel if you are grinding hard. If you are only using it for finger grooves it isn't too bad but you should keep an extra set of bearings on hand. Better bearings are an option but won't address the root problem-the small wheel just turns too fast without a variable speed setup.
 
thanks... could anyone please tell me the measurement of the space between the rubber and the bearings?

AND if the bearings of KMG style small wheels can be removed ?

THANKS a LOT

AL
 
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