San Mai core metal

K

KenH

Well-Known Member
Hello all, I'm trying to figure what core material will give a dark edge between 416 SS cladding for kitchen knives. For me making San Mai has a twofold reason, I want to learn new things, and the wife LOVES the beauty of the dark edge of the core between the SS cladding. The wife is the force driving me for that dark edge, a dark edge that will last with use. I'm not at all sure any core material will hold the nice black etched color. But in use there is a metal that will develop a darker patina in use. Hence my question about what metal would develop the darkest patina in use.

As it's been said on another forum "Picking a core steel for its ability to take a dark FC etch is like picking a wife by the color lipstick she wears." I would agree 100%, but I do know one thing for sure - you let the wife pick her own color lipstick!!

Where I looking for the "best" blade material I'd stay with AEB-L that is about the best "bang for buck" around. Even step up to the next level with S35V which is actually less expensive than making SS clad San Mai. The search for that fabled "dark edge" is all about giving the wife the "color lipstick" she wants.

I have 15N20, 1075, or 1095 to use between 416SS cladding. I'm thinking 15N20 will show least patina due to the 2% nickel and 1095 might be best due to higher carbon? I got the 15N20 and 1075 with the idea I might like to try some low layer count Damascus sometime.

Ken H>
 
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I think any plain carbon would act about the same and just get darker with more use.

Here's one in my kitchen. This is a high carbon core after several years of use with stainless sides. Was no etching ahead of time just patina from use.

Edit: Now that I think about it. I believe more manganese increases corrosion resistance a little bit. Not sure it would be a real noticeable difference. Maybe an expert can comment (I'm not one).

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Thanks for the photo and comment - that's exactly what she's looking for. The black from a fresh etch looks so good but doesn't hold up at all. That edge patina is just fine. If the other side is about the same you really kept the core centered. That's something I'm still working on so both sides will have about the same amount of core showing. Yea, I know, practice and count hammer blows to keep same on both sides. {g}
 
Ken there is more then a few products that will protect your blade. I'm not sure of the name. I looked for something that would protect my damascus blades. Someone will chime in or when I get home this evening I'll look. Oh,,, its spray on. Good luck.

I just remember,,, gun kote!
 
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I know the struggle very well on keeping the core centered. This blade was made by Murray Carter. He was an early inspiration of mine so I had purchased a few of his blades. Was just using it as an example.

I imagine the rolling mill I just built would do a pretty good job keeping it centered but might not have the distortion from hammer blows. Thought about beating on it a bit then running through the rolling mill and see what happens. Just another thing on the long list of stuff to try.
 
A rolling mill? WOW - you're serious. I'd think a rolling mill would do a good job of keeping the core centered. Like you, I think a small amount of hammering might be good to keep the line from being a boring straight line. Maybe with the straight side of the peen at right angles to the billet length? Not much, but just enough to put a wavy line when ground.

Gun cote - that's an idea. I wonder if many folks use it and how well it works?

Ken H>
 
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